How to calculate whether rebuy/addon is +ev/-ev ?

[HoRRoR]

Is there a way to calculate if a Rebuy or an Addon is +ev oder -ev ?

Addon maybe depending on your chipstack or sth and rebuy depending on blinds or whatever?

Didn't find anything about it and i wanna know when i should take a rebuy or an addon and when not.

normally there should be a way to calculate it?

[CybrPunk]

Greg Raymer did this calculation and basically concluded that, unless you have a significant amount of the total chips in play, it is almost always right to take the addon. The thread is somewhere in the archive forum. I hate the search function on these forums... otherwise I'd link it.

[PLOlover]

I did a search recently and I think it said if the addon is less than 5% of your stack or some such very small number.

[seke2]

Uhm, I'm pretty sure that the number that Raymer calculated was essentially having enough chips that you could comfortably fold into the money and have an average stack size when you got ITM. In other words, basically, always take the add-on.

[Deuce2High]

The way the 109r plays out on UB now it's sometimes -EV to rebuy. That's because the tournament is ruined, however, and it will start with like six players and pay three spots.

Other than that tournament, I've never played one where it is -EV but examples would be toiurnaments such as the example I provided above where you are paying more than cEV for your chips because so many players have already bought in and busted and you are paying so much to each individual spot that you are minimizing your edge.

Good to bring up this question because it shows how flatter payouts are less +EV for the good player.

[HoRRoR]

well guess i am too stupid for search function 8[

anyone possibly can link to raymers thread with calculation?

[omaha]

If you are broke, the rebuy is ALWAYS +ev for you, and hence, -ev for your opponents (assuming you are equally skilled) Read masons book for an explanation.

Bear in mind, though, that just because it is +ev, it is massively high in variance, so consider a $10rebuy tourney as the same as a 60$ freezout. If you cant afford to comfortably play 50 or 60 tourneys, you do not belong in an 11 rebuy!

Unfortunatly, he didnt talk about add on s much, just to say, if you have average or better, then dont do it, if you have less, then add on. It was much less scientific than his first calculations, which was a shame!

[TheFoxNL]

hmm i havent played rebuys much
just reviewed some videos tho

and seems to me that if the time addon is comming consider your position in the tourney with it and without it

imo only time not the take the add-on is when your in the top 40 of stacks without the add-on
otherwise i would just buy the add-on

i believe that top 40 is around 15k-20k in chips ?

[paddymcg21]

I agree if you're a big stack then no point in the add on. However say you get to the add on period and the average stack is 15k and you only have 450 in chips. Is it really worth another 10 dollars to play shortstacked poker for a while. I believe there are times when it is best to give up on the tourney without spending any more money.

[omaha]

I disagree with paddy 100%

The time to rebuy is when you are broke/ next to broke, because it is always + ev for you, -ev for ALL of your opponents.

It IS worth another buyin, in the long run, but it is a very high variance play.

If you cant afford five or six buyins, then dont play. If you are no good at shoving shortstacked, then dont play.

The time to give up on a short stacked tourney is when you cant rebuy, or are tilted.

I used to play them a bit, until i realised that i could go through a HUGE number of rebuys, if i was short towards the end of the rebuy period. It was killing my roll. I eventually went from short stack, to winning a sat seat, so it came good for me.

Then, i redid the calculations, and realised i had no business playing in the 10r, as i would not even consider playing a 50 or 60 net tourney. I stick to the 3r and the freezouts!