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#1
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I saw once posted in 2+2 a short basic strategy guide for 5 CD. Anyone know the URL? Thanks!
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#2
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I don't know the URL but these should suffice for opening
requirements. There are also some Wiesenberg articles in Card Player that may be of help although some of the advice is slightly inaccurate. For the following, X,Y and Z are cards that are of a higher rank than the pair. Also, x,y and z are "small cards". Hands invariably worth open raising (if first one in voluntarily) in 5-handed limit draw: utg) QQX+, JJAKQ cutoff) JJX+, TTXYZ button) 99X+, 88XYZ sb)55XY+ Slightly worse hands can usually be opened for a raise too, but I won't go into details. On the other hand, pairs that are significantly worse should be folded except when in the small blind. From the small blind, usually you can limp in profitably with any hand better than ATxyz, but you clearly want to raise with 66 or better (and you can select some trapping hands to limp in with). It's best to adopt a raise or fold approach if opening unless you have a good reason: e.g., you have quads or a hand such as QsJsJhTs8s/utg (you may elect to call if the conditions are about right). Some hands that are also worth opening are: a) a straight flush draw b) an AK-high or AQ-high flush draw c) other flush draws with a very high offsuit card d) KQJTx* e) AKQJx* *normally, you want a decent chance to win before the draw and a decent chance to bluff successfully if you catch a brick after the draw Usually weak openended straight draws and weak flush draws are worthless except when played inexpensively from either blind. Unless you are open raising or defending a blind inexpensively, almost any drawing hand that is not a sraight flush draw can be folded. If someone has already entered the pot without raising, unless you know that player is a frequent trapper, it is usually correct to raise with KKA or better and sometimes it may be correct to raise with a hand as weak as JJXY. If there is only one limper, you usually can't limp in for a small bet profitably with less than a straight flush draw or an AK-high flush draw; however, if you are on the button and there are two limpers, any flush draw is normally profitable to limp in with but any straight draw weaker than KQJT is of dubious value. The above is just a start. |
#3
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thats a great crash course, thanks
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#4
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Also, watch your opponents and think in terms of the Theory of Poker. Depending on your opponent and the action predraw, it could be correct to bet 96644 on the end but check KsQsJsTs4h, or it could be correct to check 96644 but bet KsQsJsTs4h.
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#5
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The Cardplayer article.
+100 big bets at 1/2 today in about 750 hands. SHIP IT! I literally do exactly what that article says. Just look for the people that have never played before - they are absolute ATMs. |
#6
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Stop taking my fish! I've been play draw for a year now! I think Wisenberg is the authority, and those articles are great but he doesn't go into great detail about Post draw action because "it depends". I think knowing when to call raise or fold after the draw is what makes great players better than good ones. And how they play 2pair, of course. But the best way to play after the draw is to notes on your opponents. Do they check raise? Will they call a bet with a pair of aces ?(if they won't, it is often profitable to bet into them with nothing, if you get called you have shown a loose image and will get payed off later, and if you get raised you can usually fold). Will they call with any 2pair?
Some players won't even raise post draw with trips, and some always try to check raise. These are the kinds of thing you can make a lot of money with. However, most 1/2 players are weak tight and you can be a total robot and make 12bb/100 at a good table. |
#7
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any advice regarding pl adjustments?
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#8
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you make all your money at 5d by drawing at nut flushes,thats why t he game is called draw
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#9
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[ QUOTE ]
you make all your money at 5d by drawing at nut flushes,thats why t he game is called draw [/ QUOTE ] I feel like you don't hit these enough for this to be true. Also, the game is called draw because you draw cards and not for your idiotic reasonin. |
#10
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[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ] you make all your money at 5d by drawing at nut flushes,thats why t he game is called draw [/ QUOTE ] I feel like you don't hit these enough for this to be true. Also, the game is called draw because you draw cards and not for your idiotic reasonin. [/ QUOTE ] seriously wpr don't waste your time responding to this guy he will just tell yah yah keep taking xtasy and speed dude keep taking xtasy and speed |
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