Help buying a pool cue - Page 2

RR · #11 09-23-2007, 03:33 PM

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Last bit of advice: If you like the weight/feel/design of your cue, you could consider upgrading the shaft. I ended up buying a Predator and after adjusting to it, felt like it really improved my game.

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I do know a few cue makers that would be deeply offended if you put a predator shaft on "their" cue. I personally don't care for that shaft, but it was very new when I left pool.

Duke · #12 09-23-2007, 04:07 PM

I'll just say to find a butt that you like with a good joint and throw a predator shaft on there. You'll be spending a whole lot of money to go the custom route, and barring that the predator is a pretty good shaft if low deflection is your thing.

I break with my cue, and have never had any issues with doing so. I played a ton of pool. If you're the type to bend the shaft against the table when you break, then yeah you might have issues at some point, but 'm pretty sure there are other areas of your game that you can work on before perfecting a stylized break like that. If you have a crappy joint then yeah you'll screw it all up by breaking with it too. If that's the case, then get a cue with a better joint.

PhilBeans · #13 09-24-2007, 12:33 AM

Cuetec cues are really smooth, reasonable and basically unbreakable...

[Phill] · #14 09-24-2007, 02:37 AM

Lol, Cuetec, well played sir.

PhilBeans · #15 09-24-2007, 02:41 AM

You dont like cuetec? I would play a Mcdermott too, I own one of thosse as well. I honestly like my Cuetec better though

JoeDimaggio · #16 09-24-2007, 02:51 AM

Is there much of a difference between say a 300 cue stick and a 700 cue stick? It seems to me like the larger price increase is due to the craftmanship of how it looks and not the actual enhancement of it as far as playingwise.

JoeDimaggio · #17 09-24-2007, 02:52 AM

I'm also guessing that at top of the line cue sticks from what I see the 3 main brands are Viking, McDermott, and Predator.

Duke · #18 09-24-2007, 04:14 AM

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I'm also guessing that at top of the line cue sticks from what I see the 3 main brands are Viking, McDermott, and Predator.

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Someone else can feel free to correct me, but if you're spending under a dime I don't think you can beat a predator shaft on a decent butt/joint. You're gonna have to go in to 4 figures for a good custom cue.

Also look at Joss and Meucci, unless things changed. That might put you over the grand, though. I don't follow these things like I used to.

MasterCye · #19 09-24-2007, 07:04 AM

From what I've seen the only difference between a 200-300 dollar cue and a 700-900 cue is how pretty it is. Like others have said find a cue that feels good in your hand and when you stoke, and put a predator shaft on it. At your level that's really all you need. Most people never get to a level where they need a custom cue

Also for a breaker I've had good results just using a Sneaky Pete.

codewarrior · #20 09-24-2007, 10:08 AM

As has been said, most of the cost of a cue is in the design and inlays, particularly the cost of exotic woods, ivory, and the detail of the inlays. Inlay pockets cu by hand (i.e. sharp points) are more cosly than a CNC cut pocket design. The benefit of a custom cue is freedom to have a one of a kind design, custom length, weight, butt thickness, and balance point.

As regards having a break cue - I break with a 16oz and play with an 18oz, the lighter mass means more acceleration and a harder break. Also, your break cue tip with mushroom more readily, but doesn't matter as much since you (should be) hitting the dead center of the tip every time. I may write more later.