Adjusting to loose live play after playing tight internet games

[TheHip41]

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Small and medium suited connectors suck in overly loose B&M games...

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If the game is loose, that is great for suited connectors.
If the game is aggressive, that is not good for suited connectors.

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[ill rich]

frequently attempt check raises in early position.

see the turn with pair plus backdoor flush and an overcard.

do... not.... bluff. but, value bet overcards.

see the flop with any pair in any position.

be ready to dump KK, AA, or QQ on the turn in some situations.

only play suited connectors in late position.

usually, only continue to see 4th street with top pair big kicker, a flush draw, or a straight draw.

don't slowplay anything less than a full house.

with top pair, call the river if it's only one bet back to you.

general starting hand requirements: any pair, any suited connector (LP only), 98s, 9Ts, any two big suited cards, any two big cards (KTo, QJo, JTo, QTo only in LP), any suited ace, any suited king for one bet, protect blinds with suited junk

fold easily dominated hands to a raise

play patient, fold for four hours straight if you need to

[JJNJustin]

If u can make small suited connectors work in a crazy loose game, then kudos to you. But for my own game, I have found that dicking around or getting fancy with 79s in position in these loose games is usually spewage. Instead, I play Ax from UTG. Why throw away the nut flush draw hand in a loose game from EP and yet raise and get all crazy with weaker hands flush draw hands in later position. This doesnt make sense to me.

I'm not saying I wouldnt play (see the flop) with 78s in a loose B&M game, but they are not the "gold gems" people think they are. You have to play them with utmost caution, and I hate playing any kind of hand so weakly and with utmost caution. I'd rather just throw it away. There has to be a certain amount of selectivity going on in the game for me to play non-nut flush draws. If people are routinely calling on garbage like T5s, I dont want to pay him off with my 98s.

-J

[bernie]

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If u can make small suited connectors work in a crazy loose game, then kudos to you. But for my own game, I have found that dicking around or getting fancy with 79s in position in these loose games is usually spewage.

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In loose aggressive games, I agree. Loose passive I'd play these in LP.

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If people are routinely calling on garbage like T5s, I dont want to pay him off with my 98s.

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These same types will also be playing 74s and smaller flush draws.

But as you open up a bit, your variance(swings) will also go widen up a bit.

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There has to be a certain amount of selectivity going on in the game for me to play non-nut flush draws.

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If they were more selective about their flush draw hands, wouldn't they be more likely to be playing bigger flush cards?

b

[JJNJustin]

I'm talking a totally donk game where like J4s and anything better is routinely played in the first four early positions.

Trying to get tricky or even playing 56s on the button is not profitable.

When I mean selectivity, I mean players are usually throwing away these types of hands in ep and md. In this more "normal game", the rules loose/playable, aggressive/notplayable apply.

But typically at lower limits, games are so loose, and where the general rules, "any two face cards, any two suited cards, any position" apply, smaller suited connected cards can get you into alot of trouble, and cause you much frustration.

-J

[bernie]

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Trying to get tricky or even playing 56s on the button is not profitable

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In a loose passive game with lots of callers going to the flop for just one bet, 56s should be profitable in LP. Easily at least on the button. This is precisely the game you want to play them in.

b