Heads up Stud/8

[elena_elphie]

Does anyone have any tips on playing stud/8 headsup? I feel like I'm getting killed when I end up headsup in HORSE sitngos on the stud/8 rd.

[Beavis68]

I think this is too player dependant.

[DeathDonkey]

Play for high.

-DeathDonkey

[elena_elphie]

I had figured out that aspect of it, having read Ray Zee's advice to that end as well. I do pretty much play any starting hand I would play in stud hi headsup. But do low-only hands become completely unworthwhile? A hand like 742r for instance? This hand still has some value headsup right, but maybe not even as much as a hand like 996r? Is this thinking correct?

In particular I find stealing the bringin doesn't work all that well, because my opponent usually has a baby showing and therefore think they have a good hand even if they really don't. So, maybe I should fold more trash when I'm not the bringin than I would in other games?

[AlanBostick]

Head-up stud/8 pointers:

Pairs -- even small pairs with brick kickers -- go way up in value. Razz hands go way down in value.

A pair and a brick on fifth street is death for a low starter in a ring game... but head-up, it often means you're going to see a showdown unless your opponent's board beats you.

It is better to attack than to defend. I'll attack the bring-in with a razz hand, but I prefer not to defend with one.

You can be more willing to release your bring-in if, when "defending" you reraise rather than flat-calling.

Avoid playing hands you'll have to give up on fourth street if you catch bad.

An ace in the door is worth an automatic third-street raise.

One of my favorite tricks is, when the bring-in has a brick in the door (say, a 9 or ten) and I have a higher brick in the door, to raise automatically.

And, a meta-pointer: be wary of local stud/8 specialists who offer to give you private help with your game -- they often have ulterior motives.

[Bremen]

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And, a meta-pointer: be wary of local stud/8 specialists who offer to give you private help with your game -- they often have ulterior motives.

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Not to mention they probably suck.

[elena_elphie]

[ QUOTE ]

Head-up stud/8 pointers:

Pairs -- even small pairs with brick kickers -- go way up in value. Razz hands go way down in value.

A pair and a brick on fifth street is death for a low starter in a ring game... but head-up, it often means you're going to see a showdown unless your opponent's board beats you.

It is better to attack than to defend. I'll attack the bring-in with a razz hand, but I prefer not to defend with one.

You can be more willing to release your bring-in if, when "defending" you reraise rather than flat-calling.

Avoid playing hands you'll have to give up on fourth street if you catch bad.

An ace in the door is worth an automatic third-street raise.

One of my favorite tricks is, when the bring-in has a brick in the door (say, a 9 or ten) and I have a higher brick in the door, to raise automatically.


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Thanks! That was exactly the sort of advice I was looking for!

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And, a meta-pointer: be wary of local stud/8 specialists who offer to give you private help with your game -- they often have ulterior motives.


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An important tip! I find this spot to be very player-dependent. In particular, I tend to vary the implied odds that I offer depending on the stud/8 specialist in question.