benchmark dishes

[zenfurni]

It seems like a fairly simple idea at first, but I like the levels of thought you've put into it, which brings me to the question: what are good benchmark dishes for an Italian restaurant?

I feel like the "classic" Italian dishes, spaghetti marinara and bolognese, don't qualify because I'll usually have those at home and not a restaurant (in contrast to say, pad thai for a Thai restaurant).
I nominate chicken parmigiana and lasagna. I feel that each of these dishes tests the ability of the Italian restaurant to combine cheese, sauce, and either pasta or breaded chicken, and I'm definitely motivated to reach for the parmesan as a first instinct at an Italian restaurant just because it strikes me as a complete meal. I would definitely like to hear what others' first choices are at Italian restaurants.

As a bonus: my first choice for lowbrow American/pub food is a patty melt. Discuss.