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#1
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Re: AA - Low coordinated board
I beg to differ. He could have played it a lot worse.
Yeah, maybe he should have made it a $1 or $1.25 pre. I think $2 is a scared money kill your action sort of bet. You want people to call you when you have a strong hand. You don't want their quarters, you want their dollars. You're not trying to blow them off the crappy rags they are going to call with. How are they going to put too much money in the pot when they make top pair with JTo if you don't let them play it. Sometimes it goes south and you stack off. These things happen. Post flop, the money ends up getting in however it gets in. With 80bb, you're just getting all-in here. That's just the way it is. |
#2
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Re: AA - Low coordinated board
I like $1.50 here preflop. It's not so big that everyone will fold, but it's big enough to get money in the pot. On the flop, it's probably +EV to get in here, but it's certainly high variance. Any reads on the villain?
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#3
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Re: AA - Low coordinated board
The thing is if this guy is prepared to raise with 44 or 88 or a flushdraw on this flop, why wouldn't he raise with that hand preflop having the button and facing one player? That doesn't make sense to me, so I would say if I get raised on this flop the guy probably does have a real hand (34, 89, a set, 4c5c, 8c5c, 75, 76, 56). The worst hand he will raise here is 97 or T7 I guess; but these won't be a lot in his range, although we don't have reads here. If it is a good player I wouldn't blame you for letting it go right away on that flop. You are OOP with a vulnerable hand on this flop. As it stands I would call and evaluate the turn. As mentioned already please raise more preflop so that you can get committed with your preflopmonster and 80 BB behind.
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#4
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Re: AA - Low coordinated board
idk why, but I feel like I'm gonna get flamed for saying this, but whatev.
Whenever it makes sense to (e.g. There's a bunch of limpers and you're OOP), try to get about 8%-12% of your effective stack in preflop with big one-pair hands JJ+, AK, and AQ. This makes it incredibly difficult, if not impossible, for your opponents to play profitably against you, and it also makes for very easy decisions (i.e. "I got 10% of my stack in preflop with Aces. Time to get all-in"). So for example, this would've been a good spot to make it like 1.65 preflop. If you did that, you wouldn't even bat an eye about getting all-in on this flop. Like everything with poker, this isn't a mandate from the stars. It's situational. But I find it's a pretty good to keep in mind. P.S. I'm not saying open-raise to 10BBs or anything ridiculous like that. Just raise big when it makes sense to raise big lol. Clever clever stuff, huh? |
#5
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Re: AA - Low coordinated board
[ QUOTE ]
Whenever it makes sense to (e.g. There's a bunch of limpers and you're OOP), try to get about 8%-12% of your effective stack in preflop with big one-pair hands JJ+, AK, and AQ. This makes it incredibly difficult, if not impossible, for your opponents to play profitably against you, and it also makes for very easy decisions (i.e. "I got 10% of my stack in preflop with Aces. Time to get all-in"). [/ QUOTE ] Why is this the case?? Why does 10% of your stack in pre flop mean you should auto go in post flop?? What if flop is 3 spades giving made flush to villian? Or 2 kings meaning 1 king has you behind? Sorry if this is just the toatally wrong way to look at things but I would like to know the balance between your investment in the pot and how scary the board is? Thanks in advance |
#6
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Re: AA - Low coordinated board
looks like he's got a set, 2 pair or a big draw.
wouldn't be too happy about getting it in, but it's no shame going broke with AAc here. You've got the Ac which is good but I think you should be able to fold this if villain is decent. bigger preflop raise please. |
#7
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Re: AA - Low coordinated board
[ QUOTE ]
I don't yet understand why you want to be more committed pre flop? [/ QUOTE ] Because you have the best hand. The more money they put in when you have the best hand, the more money you win long run. Also, generally, the more money in the pot preflop, the worse hands they stackoff postflop. [ QUOTE ] Why is this the case?? Why does 10% of your stack in pre flop mean you should auto go in post flop?? [/ QUOTE ] First lemme say, I hope you're not interpretting what I'm saying as "open-shove" any flop, because that's not at all it. Second, it's not auto, and you shouldn't ignore hand-reading entirely, but it's almost auto on a big chunk of flops (this one is a good example). Think about it. Suppose 100x stacks and there are three limpers (3 BB), you raise 10x (10 BB) from the SB with Aces, big blind folds (1 BB), one limper calls (9 BB). So pot is already 23BB. On almost every flop, you're gonna be c-betting 17 or so BBs. At that point you'll have 27BBs invested and 73 BBs behind. It's difficult for you not to be committed at this point with an overpair. Let's take a look at one of the examples you gave. [ QUOTE ] What if flop is 3 spades giving made flush to villian? [/ QUOTE ] Okay, assume Villain limp-called our 10x raise with suited connectors. He only has like a 6% chance of outflopping us. However, we forced him to pay 10% of his stack to hit. So even if we pay him off EVERY SINGLE TIME he outflops us, he still loses money longrun (and we win money long run) |
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