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Old 07-08-2005, 03:33 PM
citanul citanul is offline
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Default --> READ THIS BEFORE POSTING: FAQ v.010 <--

If you are new to the site, before you read this post, it is highly recommended that you read this post, which is lorinda's FAQ in the internet gambling forum. That document answers many of the frequently asked questions about playing poker on the internet in general. If you have any suggestions for this FAQ, please PM citanul.

Policy Regarding Instructional/Software Site Posts:

Links to popular STT software have long been promoted via our stickies, personal references, reviews, etc. I am allowing the same for instructional sites - via the "other..." sticky, and in the "Instructional Sites - Review" thread (also in the sticky).

Posts looking for feedback on specific software have generally been locked. Referring the poster to, what often is available, the sites own forum (or to PM the software creator). In the spirit of "fairness", I have created a "STT Software - Review" thread. All future posts will be locked and directed to this thread.

These threads are for the sole purpose of reviews/review seeking. Blatant "promotion" (read: self-promotion) of such sites is forbidden.

Unique to instructional sites: It's understandable that folks want to post hands from videos. Curtains statement in the latest thread is spot-on - "I don't think 2+2 is supposed to become a private forum [paraphrasing...for instructional sites]".

Allowing such a post here serves a SINGLE PURPOSE -- to benefit the STTF community at large, for it's strategic value. Therefore, they must...

1) have the author's permission to post the material
instructors: feel free to PM me with your blanket approval of any/all future hand posts from your sites

2) meet the hand posting standards set forth in the FAQ (buyin in the title, brief description, complete HH - including stacks/position of all, blinds, known reads, etc.

3) In spirit of the aforementioned "SINGLE PURPOSE", the instructional site may not be mentioned in either the thread title or body. Granted "Curtains Hand" will likely gain you more replies than "AK UTG". The permissions mentioned in (1) implies that use of the authors name in the title is acceptable. So "$114 - Curtains EP AK" is acceptable. "$114 hand on WHATEVER.COM" is not.

Thank you for your cooperation and understanding. This decision is subject to change obviously - with any current/future rules provided to me by the site admins.

A note about using screen names in posts:

Threads of the nature of:

"Who are the best or worst players at stakes x"

Are against the rules. Please do not post any more of those.

Similarly, please don't make big lists of "who to avoid" whether good players, or other 2+2ers.


1) If it is not obvious who a player is, please do not post about it in a thread. You can say "hand against so-and-so" if you happen to know who the screen name is but don't mention their Party/Stars/whatever name in the thread.

2) Do not post threads asking "Who is so-and-so"?

3) Don't say who a person is in the middle of a thread, either - like if a person posts an unconverted hand history, don't say "oh I know that player, he's so-and-so".

VERY IMPORTANT: If you have a bad beat or "variance" question or post, it belongs in the Bad Beats and Variance forum. NOT here.

What is a FAQ and why is it here?

FAQ stands for Frequently Asked Questions. The goal of this document is to answer such questions. Consequently, this document does NOT seek to teach basically anything about play or strategy of one table tournaments. While there will be some basic strategy linked to, it will be nothing close to comprehensive. A player seeking to learn will have to put in a significant amount of work, not be given all the answers up front in one link.

What's covered in this FAQ?
Below are covered the following:

<ul type="square">[*]What to do if someone has answered a question already answered in this FAQ:[*]Posting a hand in the 1-table tournament forum[*]A Hand Converter [*]A Few Forum Odds and Ends[*]How to Use the Search Function[*]How do I use more than one monitor? [*]Multitabling FAQ[*]Should I fold AA preflop here? [*]What are attainable stats at the different levels?[*]Should I move up? What to expect when I do? Should I play more tables? [*]Variance and Downswings [*]How big a bankroll do I need? [*]Why play at one site instead of another? [*]What do you think of my stats? Short term/long term/sample sizes[*]Policy on posting hands from 2+2 published works:[*]Software/Websites [*]Rakeback [*]How to use ICM [*]Who are the best players at the Party...? [*]Why play SNGs? [*]How to auto-import Stars HH into PT[*]Definitions of common terms[/list]
What to do if someone has answered a question already answered in this FAQ:

You can kindly remind them to read the FAQ by posting the following image:

or, one of the images in this thread:


Then feel free to mark the post for moderation so it can be locked.

Posting a hand in the 1-table tournament forum
Titling your post (durron style):

Ideally, post subject guidelines should all take the following format:

1) Off topic posts should begin with OT. For example,
<ul type="square">[*]OT: STTF-HUC side bets![/list]2) Low content topic posts should begin with LC. For example,
<ul type="square">[*]LC: Worst call I've ever seen...[/list]3) For online SnGs and live casino SnGs, please post the buyin in front of the subject. For example:
<ul type="square">[*]$11: Bubble 44 hand, help![*]($215) L1, 87s Button, no pair big draw[/list]4) For home tournaments, please begin the subject with Home. Example:

<ul type="square">[*]Home: Bizarre structure, how to adjust?[/list]
Also, if you want to get more responses, post a ~5 word summary of the hand. For example:

Good: ($11) 88 Bubble facing an allin
Bad: ($27) HELP!!!!

In this post (quoted entirely below) Scuba Chuck helps give some guidelines to what information you should try to give when you post a hand in this forum. Much of it will be included when you take your hand over to bisonbison’s hand converter automatically. Also, always remember to copyedit your posts, as sometimes there’s cut and paste or other errors that make the hand totally unintelligible. Basically, try to concisely include any piece of information that you had access to while at the table before asking for help on what your decision would have been. Sometimes you just flat out didn’t have some of the information, but try your best.

After reading (halfway so far) HOHE, there's a piece that would be very useful tool to many posters here on the forum. I highly recommend the book so far, and in particular, the piece I'm talking about is on pages 16-23.

Essentially, it sums up like this. An amateur is asking a pro for advice on a hand. The amateur, from memory, recounts what he remembers of the hand, which basicly comes down to an egocentric point of view - his cards, and his stack.

To the amateur, "his hand was the cards he held, and what the players immediately before and after him did. To the 'pro,' a 'hand' was a lot more than that. It's an entire situation, fulll of different elements, which has to be seen as a whole before good plays can be made."

So what does that mean to a regular Sit n Go poster on the forum here? (much of this has been taken right from HOHE)

Well, to me, the info that I would need to help give NL advice - in order - would be the following.

1. What limit are you playing?
2. What are the blinds (and beginning chip structure)?
3. How many players remaining?
4. What is your stack?
5. What are the stacks of the remaining players and their position?
6. Where do you sit in relation to the blinds?
7. Do you have any table reads?
8. What has been the action before you?
9. How many players remaining to act behind you?
10. Are there any relevant pot odds?
11. Will you have position after the flop?
12. Finally, what are your cards?

Without all this information, advice can vary greatly between posters. Without all this information, you are not considering the situation as a whole. Sit N Gos are not just about the cards.

[/ QUOTE ]

A Hand Converter

Pergesu does good work

A Few Forum Odds and Ends

- How to Notify the Moderators of a Post
To notify a the moderators of a post all you have to do is click the little icon that looks like a circled paper with a slash through it below the text of hte post, and follow the directions as prompted.

- I have a question or comment for a user that is private, how do I do that?
At the top of your page you will see a link labeled "My Home" click there, then on "Send a PM"

How to use the search function (written by Splashpot):

The search function here at 2+2 is notoriously confusing and difficult to use for newcomers. This results in many questions that have been asked a million times which could have easily been searched for. I hope this helps everyone become more comfortable searching for things.

Lets pretend you have a question about the steps on Party Poker. Specifically, you heard that the steps are a rake trap and you want to know if this is true. Since the steps are somewhat popular, it is likely a topic that has come up before. So you go to the search and you type in
steps rake

[/ QUOTE ]
and you select One Table Tournaments. Then you search. But instead of good results, you get every post that includes either the word "steps" or "rake". Not the most efficient way to find what you're looking for. Instead, here are some alternate things you could type in to narrow your results:

"steps rake"
This will give you posts with the exact phrase "steps rake". Anything in quotation marks will search for exactly what is inside them.

+steps rake
This will give you every post that has the word "steps". The results may or may not have the word "rake" The + in front of the word means that a post MUST have that word to be included in the results.

+steps +rake
This will give you all the posts that have both "steps" and "rake". Both of the words must be in the post for it to be included in the results.

+steps -"Re:"
This will give you all the posts with "steps" in it, but it will exclude all the posts with "Re:". This is especially helpful because all replies begin with "Re:". If you search in the subjects and you exclude all the replies, you can more easily view different topics. If the first post isn't what you are looking for, you don't have to sort through all the replies to get to the next topic.

<u>Other things to consider</u>
-Pay particular attention to the "in subject" vs. "in subject and body" options. "in subject" will only search for your search string within thread titles. This is often the best place to start a refined search.
-If you know the author of the post, you can enter it in the username field. This will only return posts by that specific poster. Note that partial names will not work. Like if you are looking for a post by durron597, but you forgot what the numbers after his name are, searching for just "durron" will not work.
-For the date range, pull down the menu and select the blank option. This will give no date restrictions. That way, all posts in the current server will be searched.
-Posts that are very old will be in the archive server.
-If you don't like this, you can use Google to search 2+2.
-The search operators "+- will work with any search engine including Google.

How do I use more than one monitor?
For questions specifically about using more than one monitor with your computer, AncientPC has been kind enough to furnish another FAQ about just that.

Multitabling FAQ (by aujoz):

For a winning player, playing more tables simultaneously increases hourly profit. Obviously, if you win, on average, $1 per tournament, and you are able to play 12 tournaments an hour, you will win $12/hr. Maximising $/hr is a key goal for many players, especially those who play for a living.

The best way to learn to play on multiple tables at once is to start with just one table, and then to add extra tables when you feel comfortable. If you add tables too quickly, you are likely to make more mistakes, and thus, you may go from being a winning player to a losing player.

A large number of "solid" players tend to find playing between four and eight tables simultaneously is best for them. Some people can play over 20 tables (either by playing on PokerStars, or having multiple accounts and computers with PartyPoker) and some have trouble playing more than one table. It really is a matter of personal preference.

A large number of players find that playing a high quality SNG strategy is easier when multitabling. As you will wish to get involved in less post-flop pots (due to actions being needed on other tables), you will play a naturally tighter game.


Multitablehelper (often referred to as MTH is a piece of software written by OrcaDK that allows a user to use the keyboard to control PartyPoker).

Many people find that this is a significant help when playing on many tables simultaneously. By using a keyboard rather than a mouse, you reduce the likelihood of being struck by Repetitive strain injury, improve the speed with which you are able to give computer commands, and reduce misclicks.

Due to the unstable nature of the PartyPoker software, a number of players use earlier version of MTH which can be accessed here .

Many players use MTH to bind directional arrow keys, while some use an external USB numeric keypad.

Playing in sets or continuously?
Playing in sets refers to opening a handful of SNGs at the same time, and waiting for all SNGs to be finished before opening new games. Playing continuously refers to consistently maintaining a steady number of SNGs open at all time.

The choice is really a matter of personal preference.

Reasons for playing in sets:
<ul type="square">[*]"Prefer to have the blind levels as close to each other on all of tables as possible" [*]"It's nice playing in sets because I can concentrate more when it gets to the bubble if I don't have 4 tables going." [*]"Playing continuously requires faster thinking, and not everyone can handle it. It's not necessarily a leak, different people just have different thresholds." [/list] Reasons for playing continuously:
<ul type="square">[*]"Get more tourneys in per hour" [*]"Helps me alot with being less results oriented" [*]"It increases $/Hr and if you cant adjust to playing a few games at differing blind levels, bubble/ITM etc then you really shouldnt be multitabling"[/list]
Should I fold AA preflop here?

Here is an example of a thread where folding AA preflop is discussed. Note the general tone of the thread.

When should you fold AA preflop? When it's likely that folding will assure you of a greater expected value than not another action. The likely form of this occurrence is spelled out in the linked thread. Other examples are elsewhere, including in TPFAP. The general rule of thumb to consider before asking a folding AA preflop question would be to either look at an ICM calculation, or sit down with a pen and paper and try to figure out the EV of folding relative to your other options.

Here's another thread about folding KK preflop. Again, note the general tone of the discussion.

What are attainable stats at the different levels?

NOTE: The below talks about the "old" party structure. Conclusive sorts of findings with respect to the "new" party structure haven't been come up with yet.

In this thread, one poster comments on many things, including attainable stats for the various buyins. More than that, there is quite a bit of posting later in that thread about what are attainable and realistic ROI’s for the higher stakes Party SNGs. A summary for a "good player" the following ROis are good, while 4 tabling:

11s - 25% ROI
20s - 20% ROI
33s - 16% ROI
55s - 13% ROI
109s - 10% ROI
215s - 7% ROI

Higher ROIs are attainable at every one of these levels, HOWEVER if you can achieve the above ROI's you are capable of making a good living at poker, especially if you can do so playing 8 at once.

Anyone who can acheive the above ROI's, while playing many tables at once, is a "good" player. They might not be great and may still have plenty of weaknesses, but they are definitely very good at what they do.

In short, if your ROI is higher than the above numbers, you are doing something right and should be relatively satisfied with your play. You may still have plenty of room to improve but you are definitely on the right track.

(thanks for the above to curtains.)

Basically, as you move up your ITM shouldn’t decrease very much, but your ROI will. If you’re making money though, you’re making money. Just don’t get overconfident with a small sample size. See the “what do you think of my stats?” section.

Should I move up? What to expect when I do? Should I play more tables?

Should you move up? Should you play more tables? Answer: sure, why not. Only you are actually going to be able to tell when you’re ready for either of those things. Whatever you post isn’t going to make it so that someone else will be able to tell you these things. The only real advice I can give is that you shouldn’t think that you’re losing at low stakes because of the bad players and so you should move up to play with people who “know what they’re doing.” That’s a fallacy.

What should you expect to happen when you do these things? The play of the average opponent is going to get stronger as you move up stakes. When you play more tables at once, it’s likely your ROI is going to drop slightly, but the goal is to have your hourly rate improved anyway, by having added the additional tables. It is likely that adding more tables will hurt your ability to follow the action at each table, and hurt your reads. It is often suggested that because of this a player who is interested in improving his game to its maximum potential not attempt to get the most tables possible, but instead concentrate the tables they do play.

Variance and Downswings

A Small FAQ on Variance. In short, variance is great, and stinks, all at the same time. Whatever your most recent downswing is, it’s very likely that another 2+2er has had worse. We commiserate, I promise. But we usually don’t want to hear about it.

To answer the other standard question: What is a really long out of the money streak for a winning player? The math is pretty easy to figure out what the chances of any given run are with a given ITM, but any random number in the teens is the standard stinky run number.

How big a bankroll do I need?

This is totally a preference thing. How willing or able are you to reload your bankroll if you bust it? How low of a risk of ruin do you like to have to feel comfortable? You should always have enough money in your bankroll that you are not playing with “scared money” at whatever stakes you are playing.

Many numbers are thrown around for how many buyins for a given level actually constitutes a bankroll. However, there are some factors that are clearly true, including that you need to have a larger in terms of buyins bankroll to play the higher stakes games. While many agree that to play the lower stakes games, 30-50 buyins is probably enough, many also say that to feel comfortable playing the highest limit games, they like to have 50-100 buyins in their bankroll. 100 being the most conservative number offered for high stakes play.

The recommended numbers for these things are constantly in flux. Some people want to know how large a bankroll you should need if you're never willing to move down in stakes, some want to know how large a roll is needed if you're willing to move down. Required bankroll is basically saying "How many buyins do I need to have a (really) low risk of ruin?" as I said in the first paragraph. Sadly ROR depends on a lot of things. People's bankroll requirements are going to be functions of their own ROI, number of tables played at once, succeptability to tilt, and other factors. Thus, the above is merely a framework to work with. If you find yourself needing more, for "real" or psychological reasons, make sure you have more. In general though, less than 30 buyins is considered unsafe in terms of ROR.

It is very important to remember that the more willing a player is to move down limits when they lose, practicing a form of bankroll management, the fewer buyins for the next highest level the player needs to take a shot at moving up.

Why play at one site instead of another?

This depends really on why you are playing the games, amongst other things. If you are playing for fun, you might not care about maximizing your hourly rate. If you are playing purely for money, you might not care about anything else at all. The two largest SNG sites are Partypoker and Pokerstars at the moment. Partypoker’s benefits include that they have the largest player pools, the most frequently starting games, and the games have a fixed number of hands per blind level, assuring a quick game. Pokerstars’ benefits include a widely preferred interface, timed levels, nine player tables, as well as the offering of turbo SNGs. Most SNG players wind up choosing Partypoker, as the games are the softest, and the fastest.

What do you think of my stats? Short term/long term/sample sizes

The short answer is that most likely no one cares about your stats. But if you’re thinking about posting them, there’s probably a reason. Before you do so, you should know that to come to any sort of idea about what your “actual” stats are, you’re going to have to play about 1000 games at a level before anyone takes your numbers seriously. Smaller sample sizes are just plain old too small to be worthwhile. Here is a very good thread about confidence intervals and SNGs. Here is another.

Policy on posting hands from 2+2 published works:

From Mason Malmuth:

Hi durron:

No it's not. What is allowed is a summary of the pertient facts of the hand which can then be used for discussion. But if a hand is posted in its entirety, or a large portion of the text is presented, it's a copyright violation and would need to come down.

Best wishes,

[/ QUOTE ]


This section has been moved to the STTF Digests and Links thread


Rakeback refers to having an arrangement whereby you receive a percentage of your rake that you play to the poker sites. At the moment, this practice is not commonly supported by most of the major online poker rooms, and is strictly against the terms and conditions of their user agreements. That said… at most of the sites, the house take of the entrance fees for SNG tournaments counts as rake, and thus contributes to your rakeback payments. How to get rakeback and who to get it from is more than will be covered in this document. If you are looking for an affiliate deal, do research: use the search function, use google, and of course, use the classifieds section of this website. Rakeback is discussed in many threads, and also in the Internet Forum’s FAQ. Twoplustwo forum members who are affiliates should be careful though, as it is against the forum’s rules to discuss affiliate offers and/or advertise in any way that doesn’t include paying for a sanctioned advertisement.

How to use ICM

Dethgrind gives a clinic.

Who are the best players at the Party...?

This question is asked all the time about basically every buyin level of the Partypoker SNGs. For most of the buyins, the question is somewhat ridiculous, as the player pools are incredibly large, sample sizes are hard to get to, and good players often move up from the lower levels, so don’t spend enough time to be recognized as a “great” player at those levels.

At the higher buyin levels the question is made difficult sometimes by players changing their names, having multiple screen names, and other factors. The main difficulty is that the people who have large enough data sets to take a good shot at answering this sort of question for high stakes games have very little to compel them to share their information.

If you’re somewhat curious about the answers to the question, search the archive. If you’re more curious than that, I’d recommend datamining the games.

Why play SNGs?

Different people have different reasons. Some people like the “it’s a science”-ishness of them. Some people like the fact that they take a pretty standard amount of time. Some people like the variety of going from full table all the way to heads up. Some people just got burned out on whatever their last game was and think SNGs are fun. Others like the fact that the variance is lower in SNGs than other forms of poker. It’s all good.

How to auto-import Stars HH into PT

Wiggs73 was kind enough to create for us an excellent Tutorial: How to auto-import Stars HHs into Poker Tracker

Definitions of common terms

DrPhysic's Dictionary of Online Poker Terms can be found here.

Link to the official 2+2 abbreviation list.

All-In: To bet all of your chips, or as much of them as anyone who can call you can call.

$EV: Dollar Expected Value – the expected profit or loss in dollars associated with a decision.

Aggressive: Adjective used to describe a player who plays in the opposite manner to the weak player. This player bets and raises often, while calling and checking infrequently. The exception would be checkraising.

B&amp;M: Brick and Mortar: describes games played anywhere but online, usually in a casino.

BB: Big Blind

Brick: A card that seems like it should help no one.

Bubble: The point in any tournament when players begin to play extra tight in order to attempt to assure themselves a finish in the money. Usually, this occurs when there is one player more than there are paid finishing positions

Button: The player who acts last on every round of betting except preflop. The blinds are seated to the left of this player.

C&amp;R: Ciaffone and Reuben

cEV: Chip Expected Value – the expected profit or loss in chips associated with a decision.

CO: Cutoff – The player to the right of the button

Coordinated Board: A board that is likely to have hit someone hard if they hit it or given someone a strong draw.

CR: Check Raise – When a player checks the first time it their turn to act on a given round of betting, and then raises after another player bets acting after them.

EV: Expected Value – the expected profit or loss associated with a decision.

Folding Equity: (Percentage of times all remaining opponents will fold to your bet)x(total chips you stand to gain when they do all fold)

The Gap: The varying amount by which a hand needs to be better to call a bet than would be needed to make the same bet.

The Gap Concept: The concept that it takes a better hand to call a bet than to make the same bet.

HE: Hold ‘em

Hijack: The seat 2 to the right of the button.

HOH: Harrington on Hold ’em

Hourly Rate: The amount of money a player earns in an hour of play. (Total Prizes Won – Total Buyins)/(Hours Played)

HU: Heads Up – playing poker 1 on 1.

ICM: Independent Chip Model – a mathematical model used to help determine prize share equity based on chip stacks.

ITM: In the Money percentage – the percentage of games played that a player finishes in the money. (# money finshes)/(total games)

LAG: Loose Aggressive

Loose: Adjective used to describe a style of play where many hands are played.

MHIG: My Hand is Good – At showdown, you won.

MTT: Multi-table tournament – a tournament with many tables.

NL: No Limit – a form of poker where at any point in the hand, a player can wager any amount of their chips, greater than the blind, unless a smaller bet would put the player all in.

OESD: Open-ended Straight Draw: a draw to a straight with 8 outs, assuming no dead cards.

OOP: Out of Position – being in a position where you will be likely to be amongst the first to act for the entire hand.

OP: Original Post(er) – refers to the top post in a thread.

Overlay: When a pot or prize pool offers greater payouts, and consequently odds, than those that would be created by just the active players in the hand or game. Examples of things that create overlays are dead money or guaranteed prize funds.

PF: Preflop – All action between the deal of hole cards and the deal of the flop.

PFR: Preflop Raiser, or Preflop Raise percentage – Either describes the player who took the lead of action by raising preflop, or the percentage of the time that a given player raises preflop.

PL: Pot Limit – a form of poker where at any point in the hand, a player can wager any amount up to the amount that is in the pot after their call of any bet to them.

PLO8: Pot Limit Omaha 8 or Better

Pot Odds: come in two varieties, implied or immediate, and are used to evaluate the mathematical “price” a player is receiving to play their hand. Immediate odds take into account only the chips that are in the pot at the moment, while implied odds take into account the future chips that may or may not go into the pot.

PP: Party Poker

PP: Pocket Pair – In Hold ‘em, when a player is dealt a pair as their two hole cards.

PS: Poker Stars

Push: Forum jargon for moving “All-in.”

PVS: Forum jargon named after poster “Phil Van Sexton”: a play in which a player attempts to steal the dead chips in a pot caused by limping or a raise and a few callers all believed to be weak. Usually this is done when the dead chips in the pot are a significant percentage of the player’s stack, and is only really a PVS when done with junk cards.

Rainbow: When no two cards on the board are the same suit.

Raise the Pot: a call of any bet to a player plus a raise of the total amount in the pot already. Example: if there are $2 in the pot, and an opponent bets $2, a player raising the pot would have to put in $8 – the call of $2, plus the amount that would then be in the pot, $2 from before, $2 from the opponent, and $2 from the player.

ROI: Return on Investment – the average return a player earns on an investment of $1. (Total Prizes Won-Total Buyins paid)/(Total Buyins) Note: Total buyins includes the rake paid to the card room.

SB: Small Blind

SNG: Sit-and-Go – the type of game discussed in this forum. Generally a tournament with one table, but more generally, any tournament where players simply take seats, and begin when all seats are filled, instead of being assigned seats.

Stop and Go: Instead of going all in from the blinds against a preflop raiser who would be pot committed to calling a reraise, calling the raise, and going all in on any flop.

STT: Single Table Tournament – any tournament where all the players start the game at one table.

t(any number): denotes tournament chips.

TAG: Tight Aggressive

Texture: Describes the characteristics of the board. For instance, the texture of a board could be three to a straight, or to a flush, rainbow, scattered, or the often used “scary,” “dangerous,” “non-dangerous.”

Tight: Adjective used to describe a style of play where very few hands are played.

TOP: Theory of Poker

TPFAP: Tournament Poker for Advanced Players

TPxK: Top pair x Kicker. If x is “T” it means “top.” If x is a number, such as 2, it means “Top pair, 2nd Kicker,” etc.

UB: Ultimate Bet

UTG: Under the Gun – The player who acts first in a hand. This player is seated immediately to the left of the big blind.

VPIP: Voluntarily put in pot – percentage of the time a player puts money into the pot that is not forced by the blinds.

Weak: Adjective used to describe a style of play where a player plays too passively. Typically this player will check, call, and fold too much, while betting and raising too little.
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