27TD Hand Linecheck

[greggg230]

Triple Draw 2-7 Lowball Limit ($300/$600) (converter)

Hero ($7615), Seat 1
BB ($4430), Seat 2
UTG ($7355), Seat 3
MP ($5385), Seat 4
CO ($6605), Seat 5
Button ($4438), Seat 6

Button at Seat 6.
Hero posts $150. BB posts $300.

Hand: [6h 7d 8s Jh 3h]

Round 1: (1.50 SB)

<font color="#666666">UTG folds. </font><font color="#666666">MP folds. </font><font color="#666666">CO folds. </font><font color="green">Button calls. </font><font color="green">Hero calls. </font><font color="green">BB checks. </font>
Hero discards 8s Jh. BB takes 4. Button takes 3.

Hand: [6h 7d 3h 3s Qs]

Round 2: (3.00 SB)

<font color="red">Hero bets. </font><font color="green">BB calls. </font><font color="#666666">Button folds. </font>
Hero discards 3s Qs. BB takes 2.

Hand: [6h 7d 3h 5s 4d]

Round 3: (2.50 BB)

<font color="red">Hero bets. </font><font color="green">BB calls. </font>
Hero discards 6h. BB takes 1.

Hand: [7d 3h 5s 4d Jc]

Round 4: (4.50 BB)

<font color="green">Hero checks. </font><font color="red">BB bets. </font><font color="green">Hero calls. </font>

Total pot: (6.50 BB - $3900)

Button had been regularly limping in and drawing 3 so I figured this hand was playable for just a completion. Comments on entire hand are welcome.

[2461Badugi]

Raise, draw one.

[greggg230]

Anoter hand, same session:

Triple Draw 2-7 Lowball Limit ($300/$600) (converter)

SB ($4888), Seat 6
Hero ($4315), Seat 1
UTG ($12230), Seat 2
MP ($6305), Seat 3
CO ($4935), Seat 4
Button ($3155), Seat 5

Button at Seat 5.
SB posts $150. Hero posts $300.

Hand: [Ad 3h Kc 2d 4s]

Round 1: (1.50 SB)

<font color="#666666">UTG folds. </font><font color="#666666">MP folds. </font><font color="green">CO calls. </font><font color="#666666">Button folds. </font><font color="green">SB calls. </font><font color="red">Hero raises. </font><font color="green">CO calls. </font><font color="#666666">SB folds. </font>
Hero discards Ad Kc. CO takes 2.

Hand: [3h 2d 4s 8s 8h]

Round 2: (5.00 SB)

<font color="red">Hero bets. </font><font color="green">CO calls. </font>
Hero discards 8s. CO takes 2.

Hand: [3h 2d 4s 8h Js]

Round 3: (3.50 BB)

<font color="red">Hero bets. </font><font color="green">CO calls. </font>
Hero stands pat. CO takes 1.

Hand: [3h 2d 4s 8h Js]

Round 4: (5.50 BB)

<font color="green">Hero checks. </font><font color="red">CO bets. </font><font color="#666666">Hero folds. </font>

Total pot: (5.50 BB - $3300)

[Oblivious]

Can you explain your thinking on rounds 3 and 4? I guess theyre clever, and designed to make CO check behind slightly better hands and only bet hands that clearly have you beat. But it seems like if your hand dictates giving up on the pot, why not check/call third and draw? It seems youd have a lot more flexibility on 4th and might induce some bluffs (or bad checks) from CO.

[greggg230]

Do you mean on hand 2?

Since villain had drawn 2, my thinking was that if he now had a pat hand, he would raise me (since I had drawn one on the second draw and he would then think he was probably ahead). If he just flat-called, that means he probably was going to draw at least one.

I stood pat with the jack b/c of the standard conventional wisdom about it being a favorite against a one card draw (or at least most one card draws).

I c/f'd on the river because people at this level pretty much never fold hands that they stood pat with, so I figured my chance of being bluffed there was very small.

[Slide]

Hand 2:

Bet and draw one. The jack is such a small favourite against a one card that your better off drawing. Too many times your going to get your oppenent to call and stand behind you with a 876ish 875ish type and then your dead in the water. Plus you also may get outplayed being out of position after the 3rd draw. If you were in position against your oppenent this line is much more profitable and acceptable.

[palman]

Seriously, neither of these hands could be played at 300/600, so I don't get it.

Raise and draw one, the only time I like breaking an 8 like this is in a multi way pot that's large in where you are going to need a 7 at some point to likely win it. In small pots like this, it's always better to raise and draw 1 because of the liklihood that the pot will get folded to you when your opponnent is behind a card and will fold because the pot is so small.

Hand 2, I like breaking the jack, because if you are right and he's drawing, you're a small favorite (55%) that can get outplayed on the river, you have a good draw here more than likely, so if you are right and he's drawing you're ahead just as much as with the jack, except you can actually get value on the river/play the river mistake free. Throw in the times your opponnent stands pat behind you with a weak 8 or good (or even bad nine in which you're checking the river since no one ever does the smooth call check behind and fold to a river bet move) breaking the jack is what I'd recommend.

That being said, as it is triple draw, the way you played hand #2 isn't terribly bad, as I'll do that line occassionally. Most of the time, I'll play it like I described, but what you did isn't that bad at all, and actually essential if you want to mix up your play, I'm just saying more often than not I'll check after the 2nd draw and muck the jack, but there is some value in occassionally doing what you did.

[2461Badugi]

[ QUOTE ]
Seriously, neither of these hands could be played at 300/600, so I don't get it.


[/ QUOTE ]

They're WCOOP satellite hands.

[greggg230]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Seriously, neither of these hands could be played at 300/600, so I don't get it.


[/ QUOTE ]

They're WCOOP satellite hands.

[/ QUOTE ]

Heh, ya, I should have specified this was a donkament, not nosebleed cash. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]