I am a bankroll [censored]

[Quicksilvre]

...but at least now I can fully admit it to myself.

Okay, no more underrolling for me. I'm getting some money coming in soon and I'm going to deposit $200 into Party. With that I'm going to play .5/1 and 1/2 O8, and the occasional $6 SNG. No hold'em until I get to $250. (Well, at least not the .5/1 tables.)

I think that's pretty reasonable when it comes to LHE and O8, but I need a bit of advice when it comes to NLHE. I know the standard advice is twenty full buy-ins, but I don't buy in for full. I'm trying the Ed Miller thang, and I usually come in for $6 on the NL25 tables. Does the twenty buy-in advice still hold true if I'm not buying in for the max?

[Bobb]

Yes.

[Quicksilvre]

Dang. All righty, I guess it's limit or Beginners for me then until I can build my roll.

[Hoss1193]

I would recommend against the 1/2 and the SNG's. You're already under-bankrolled for the .50/1 at 200BB...why increase your swings with the other games.

I would say deposit $300 and play only .50/1 until you get your BR up to around 600.

[3CardMonty]

Hoss, since OP is asking about NLHE I am wondering why you are suggesting a roll of only 300XBB instead of 500XBB or 1000XBB?

I guess my reasoning behind this question is just because OP does not intend to buy in at Max buy-in to me only means he will not reap the rewards of well played hands when the pot is large. I cannot see how this will save him money although it may allow him to lose it more slowly on his bad plays/beats.

I also buy-in on some games for minimum when I am playing Multi table ring NL games. I use this strategy when I do not have time to follow the rounds, watching players, pay attention running a HUD, and only play to see the flop. Once I go all-in there the rest is just history, I win or I lose. So even minimum buy in can have some huge swings when you multi table with this strategy. I know this is not what OP is doing but just wanted to make the comment.

Monty

[Quicksilvre]

[ QUOTE ]
You're already under-bankrolled for the .50/1 at 200BB

[/ QUOTE ]

Really? I thought 100BBs was fine for O8. Admittedly, I probably will start from the .50/1s, but I don't think I'm that underrolled.

100BBs is pretty much fine for O8 in general. But I am assuming the .5/1 game has a bit higher variance than the higher limits.

[derick]

[ QUOTE ]
I'm trying the Ed Miller thang, and I usually come in for $6 on the NL25 tables. Does the twenty buy-in advice still hold true if I'm not buying in for the max?

[/ QUOTE ]

My standard deviation is 17bb/100 hands when doing the Ed Miller short stack ....

If you're a beginner it's unlikely that your standard deviation will be less than 17.

I expect to make about 4bb/100.

So I expect to win or lose about 50bb, 99% of the time...

But 1% of the time I'll win or lose more.

When I buy in for full I get about the same standard deviation (16 vs 17) and a little bit higher win rate (4.4 vs 4.0).

So I would expect that you would need the same bankroll for either....

// Standard warning about the tiny sample size 30,000 hands goes here.....


My conclusion:

I like 1000 to 2000 Big blinds for either full buying or Short stack.

Confession: I played 600NL on 3 buyins!! Don't do what I do, Do what I advise!!!

[Quicksilvre]

Very helpful. Thank you very much.