Getting Poker Rate at Commerce

[StarRain]

That does sound terrible. Only the 5/10 $500 minimum is acceptable for me I guess. 10/20 is a bit higher than my comfort zone at this stage. For the 5/10 @ The bike, is there a maximum buy-in? Thanks for your information

[Rick Nebiolo]

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In that case, everyone has 40BBs in the beginning? Is that normal? In The Bike, how much is the maximum buy-in for 5-10? Thanks for the reply, so far I think The Bike has a much better structure

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LA has terrible structures for the NL, really demoting the game to some sort of crap-shooting Limit, (but still beatable, of coarse)

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The fixed and spread buy games have tremendous action and many graduate to play deep stack. Also note that in fixed or spread buy games rebuys are so frequent that the stacks in fact get deep once the game is going a bit. In the fixed buyin games typically a rebuy is allowed once your stack goes below 50% the size of the original buyin and a 1.5 times normal buyin is allowed if you go busto.

IMO nothing beats being deep in a good fixed buy game with no chance that an empty seat can be taken by a quality deep stack player starting deep.

I made some corrections and added some information to your original table below:

1/1 = 20 fixed (Hawaiian Gardens only)
1/2 = 40 fixed (fixed defined as no more or no less)
1/3 = 80 fixed (only at the Bike)
2/3 = 100 fixed (great action spread almost everywhere)
3/5 = 200 fixed at Bike, Commerce, Hollywood Park
3/5 = 300 fixed at Hawaiian Gardens
2/5 = 100 to 300 spread buy at Hustler
5/5 = 300 to 500 spread buy (Bike only)
5/10 = 500 minimum at Hollywood Park
5/10 = 1000 minimum (Bike, I think Hustler too)
5/10 = 400 fixed (Commerce, Hollywood Park)
5/10 = 500 fixed at Hawaiian Gardens
10/20 = 600 minimum at Commerce), I think 2000 minimum at the Bike and 1000 minimum at Hawaiian Gardens).
25/50 = 2000 minimum spread at Commerce
Bigger games sometimes spread at Commerce and Bike

Hope this helps.

~ Rick

[StarRain]

Thanks for the very helpful information. I don't think I can stand starting at 40BBs. Therefore I will make a U-turn and stay around The Bicycle instead. I don't really get the "No Max BI" thing. I have never played in a game where players can sit with 500BB as soon as they join the table. What kind of strategy should I use in that case? For example, say I have worked to build a 300BB stack. One unknown sits down and buy-in 300BBs. When he over bet shoving the river, I guess I would find it tough to call with 2nd nuts. Or if the money gets in on the flop when I have a straight against a set, the variance would be quite high coz I might lose 300BB in a hand with the nuts on the flop. Not saying that it's less profitable or something, just the risk/variance sounds much higher in that way

[Rick Nebiolo]

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Thanks for the very helpful information. I don't think I can stand starting at 40BBs. Therefore I will make a U-turn and stay around The Bicycle instead. I don't really get the "No Max BI" thing. I have never played in a game where players can sit with 500BB as soon as they join the table. What kind of strategy should I use in that case? For example, say I have worked to build a 300BB stack. One unknown sits down and buy-in 300BBs. When he over bet shoving the river, I guess I would find it tough to call with 2nd nuts. Or if the money gets in on the flop when I have a straight against a set, the variance would be quite high coz I might lose 300BB in a hand with the nuts on the flop. Not saying that it's less profitable or something, just the risk/variance sounds much higher in that way

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If your BR is short you might want to get up when you get uncomfortably deep (since a huge chunk of it is on the table possibly matched by other deep stacks, some of whom play well).

But in the fixed or spread buy games I often take an opposite tack. My BR is relatively short and under constant expenditure pressure with a sick double nut. In these games sometimes I quickly get very deep (example, last night I had 340 times the BB) where I cover everybody (or almost everybody). Now I'll be in position to gamble with big edges against the other deepish stacks (if there are any) and dance around the other big stack (if he plays deep stack well). Against the small stacks all I'm looking for is a moderate edge. Meanwhile no talented deep stack player can join the table and start deep. This to me is the beauty of fixed and spread buy games.

Obviously once you get deep in a fixed or spread buy game those extra chips are not easily replaceable if lost so treat them with extra care.

In a minimum buy game you can buy the minimum in an action game and get your money in early with large edges attenuated by the fact that the deep stacks will often be forcing draws out and such (except they can't force you out since you are often all-in by the end of the flop betting).

Hope this helps,

Rick

[MrMore]

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I made some corrections and added some information to your original table below:

1/1 = 20 fixed (Hawaiian Gardens only)
1/2 = 40 fixed (fixed defined as no more or no less)
1/3 = 80 fixed (only at the Bike)
2/3 = 100 fixed (great action spread almost everywhere)
3/5 = 200 fixed at Bike, Commerce, Hollywood Park
3/5 = 300 fixed at Hawaiian Gardens
2/5 = 100 to 300 spread buy at Hustler
5/5 = 300 to 500 spread buy (Bike only)
5/10 = 500 minimum at Hollywood Park
5/10 = 1000 minimum (Bike, I think Hustler too)
5/10 = 400 fixed (Commerce, Hollywood Park)
5/10 = 500 fixed at Hawaiian Gardens
10/20 = 600 minimum at Commerce), I think 2000 minimum at the Bike and 1000 minimum at Hawaiian Gardens).
25/50 = 2000 minimum spread at Commerce
Bigger games sometimes spread at Commerce and Bike

Hope this helps.

~ Rick

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Thanks for taking the time to do this. I get out of date sometimes myself, and this comes in handy.

[SEAN.R.R]

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1/1 = 20 fixed (Hawaiian Gardens only)
1/2 = 40 fixed (fixed defined as no more or no less)
1/3 = 80 fixed (only at the Bike)
2/3 = 100 fixed (great action spread almost everywhere)
3/5 = 200 fixed at Bike, Commerce, Hollywood Park
3/5 = 300 fixed at Hawaiian Gardens
2/5 = 100 to 300 spread buy at Hustler
5/5 = 300 to 500 spread buy (Bike only)
5/10 = 500 minimum at Hollywood Park
5/10 = 500 [minimum (Bike,(hustler may be 1000 min i don't know))5/10 = 400 fixed (Commerce, Hollywood Park)
5/10 = 500 fixed at Hawaiian Gardens
10/20 = 600 minimum at Commerce), I think 1000 minimum at the Bike and 1000 minimum at Hawaiian Gardens).
20/40 = 2000 minimum spread at Commerce
Bigger games sometimes spread at Commerce and Bike

Hope this helps.

~ Rick

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fyp

[StarRain]

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Thanks for the very helpful information. I don't think I can stand starting at 40BBs. Therefore I will make a U-turn and stay around The Bicycle instead. I don't really get the "No Max BI" thing. I have never played in a game where players can sit with 500BB as soon as they join the table. What kind of strategy should I use in that case? For example, say I have worked to build a 300BB stack. One unknown sits down and buy-in 300BBs. When he over bet shoving the river, I guess I would find it tough to call with 2nd nuts. Or if the money gets in on the flop when I have a straight against a set, the variance would be quite high coz I might lose 300BB in a hand with the nuts on the flop. Not saying that it's less profitable or something, just the risk/variance sounds much higher in that way

[/ QUOTE ]

If your BR is short you might want to get up when you get uncomfortably deep (since a huge chunk of it is on the table possibly matched by other deep stacks, some of whom play well).

But in the fixed or spread buy games I often take an opposite tack. My BR is relatively short and under constant expenditure pressure with a sick double nut. In these games sometimes I quickly get very deep (example, last night I had 340 times the BB) where I cover everybody (or almost everybody). Now I'll be in position to gamble with big edges against the other deepish stacks (if there are any) and dance around the other big stack (if he plays deep stack well). Against the small stacks all I'm looking for is a moderate edge. Meanwhile no talented deep stack player can join the table and start deep. This to me is the beauty of fixed and spread buy games.

Obviously once you get deep in a fixed or spread buy game those extra chips are not easily replaceable if lost so treat them with extra care.

In a minimum buy game you can buy the minimum in an action game and get your money in early with large edges attenuated by the fact that the deep stacks will often be forcing draws out and such (except they can't force you out since you are often all-in by the end of the flop betting).

Hope this helps,

Rick

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Thanks for your thoughts. My BR isn't relatively large. For the regular NL games online, when I am deep there are usually no more than 2 players who covers me, therefore I don't have as much pressure. However, if an unknown who just sits in and is allowed to buy in as much as he wants, it gets tougher to control the pot size since I know nothing about him. The information might be too expensive [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]. However, I might just need a different strategy to take advantage of this kind of games (Ex. Buy-In to match the worst player in the table and try to trap him)

[Rick Nebiolo]

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However, I might just need a different strategy to take advantage of this kind of games (Ex. Buy-In to match the worst player in the table and try to trap him)

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When you can control your buyin (or add as required) just match up with the worse players. For example, with 5/10 blinds two excellent players have $2000, three tight nitty types have $1000, and three clueless players have $1500. Best buyin would be about $1500, matching your stack with the clueless players. Then make your decision whether to add more chips or even leave based IN PART on your stack size relative to the weakest players.

~ Rick

[pig4bill]

How do you know when you buy in who's the worst? Do the L.A. casinos issue nametags?

[SubGreen]

I'll be there from thurs. 26 through the weekend, look for you on the tables

sup bro?