Looking more professional, a fashion thread

[The DaveR]

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I am wondering what the general consensus on pleated trousers is. I have two nice suits, and the Brooks Brothers I got pleats. I then purchased a J. Press suit and they don't even make pleated trousers as they have tried to keep the same "Ivy League" look since the early 1900's. I feel that I prefer flat front slacks since I am tall and thin, but currently most of my nice trousers are pleated and my casual khakis are flat front.

I had previously assumed pleats were dressier but now it seems a creation for ever more overweight men. Any thoughts?

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I think flat front is definitely better if you are not fat and are wearing trousers without a jacket. However, I think pleats are still considered standard for suits, whether you are a fatty or not.

I'm by no means an expert on this stuff, thats just my general impression.

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I find pleats comfortable. They expand when one sits. Wearing one over the other is generally just a style preference unless you wear suspenders. Trousers with suspenders typically get a slew of design changes (higher, split back, higher rise) to look their best and one of those changes are deep pleats. Also, the "Ivy League" look is actually post WWII. You really should leave J Press behind. Their jackets are drab and shapeless and terribly, terribly dated.

[The DaveR]

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Here's an example of a horrible one where the bottom of the knot isn't pinched tight enough:



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Is this your personal opinion or is that a standard? That knot looks completely fine to me.

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I also fail to see the horrificness of it.

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One can nitpick but it's hardly "horrible." The knot is generally too big.

[miajag]

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I was going to ask about this next. I also bought a black suit and a couple pairs of charcoal slacks, the suit will be for special occasions but I'd still like to be able to wear the french cuff shirts with just a tie and slacks...

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Hmm... interesting. French cuff shirts are the dressiest dress shirt you can wear, so I think it's a little odd to wear them with slacks and a tie only.

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Actually opened this thread to ask DaveR or someone else knowledgeable about this. A lot of guys I know wear french cuffs on a regular basis, either with just slacks/tie or a sportcoat. I thought that was a pretty big fashion faux pas. Acceptable or not?

[The DaveR]

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I was going to ask about this next. I also bought a black suit and a couple pairs of charcoal slacks, the suit will be for special occasions but I'd still like to be able to wear the french cuff shirts with just a tie and slacks...

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Hmm... interesting. French cuff shirts are the dressiest dress shirt you can wear, so I think it's a little odd to wear them with slacks and a tie only.

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Actually opened this thread to ask DaveR or someone else knowledgeable about this. A lot of guys I know wear french cuffs on a regular basis, either with just slacks/tie or a sportcoat. I thought that was a pretty big fashion faux pas. Acceptable or not?

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I think it's fine. I don't like french cuffs myself, but that's just me.

I dislike ties without a jacket, however.

[ipitythefool]

Anyone have advice for a suit newb? I did some free work for a friend a while ago. To show his gratitude he said he had a connection in nice suits and could get me one for free. I looked them up online and we're talking $800-1300 suits. Obv I'm not likely to pass on 800-1300 of free...

1. Assuming I don't need this for work and only formal occations what's my best choice for color/style?
2. Since this is a buddy buddy kind of thing I can't run in to the place and get my measurements taken, I have to give them to my friend. Is this the kind of thing that I can just stop by at any tailor for? Anything to know about making sure they're being taken right?

any other advice would be helpful.

[gusmahler]

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Anyone have advice for a suit newb? I did some free work for a friend a while ago. To show his gratitude he said he had a connection in nice suits and could get me one for free. I looked them up online and we're talking $800-1300 suits. Obv I'm not likely to pass on 800-1300 of free...

1. Assuming I don't need this for work and only formal occations what's my best choice for color/style?
2. Since this is a buddy buddy kind of thing I can't run in to the place and get my measurements taken, I have to give them to my friend. Is this the kind of thing that I can just stop by at any tailor for? Anything to know about making sure they're being taken right?

any other advice would be helpful.

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Solid navy is probably the safest choice, though solid charcoal is a close second.

Any tailor will be able to take the measurements, especially if you told them why. They'll charge you, of course.

[gusmahler]

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I was going to ask about this next. I also bought a black suit and a couple pairs of charcoal slacks, the suit will be for special occasions but I'd still like to be able to wear the french cuff shirts with just a tie and slacks...

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Hmm... interesting. French cuff shirts are the dressiest dress shirt you can wear, so I think it's a little odd to wear them with slacks and a tie only.

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Actually opened this thread to ask DaveR or someone else knowledgeable about this. A lot of guys I know wear french cuffs on a regular basis, either with just slacks/tie or a sportcoat. I thought that was a pretty big fashion faux pas. Acceptable or not?

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Judging by these threads, many conservative dressers frown upon it:
http://askandyaboutclothes.com/forum...ad.php?t=69843
http://askandyaboutclothes.com/forum...ad.php?t=70453

Personally, I think it's fine.

[El Diablo]

mia,

I think French cuffs are sweet, but generally only see them worn a lot in Europe and NYC. I say go for it, I think they look really good.

[jws43yale]

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I find pleats comfortable. They expand when one sits. Wearing one over the other is generally just a style preference unless you wear suspenders. Trousers with suspenders typically get a slew of design changes (higher, split back, higher rise) to look their best and one of those changes are deep pleats. Also, the "Ivy League" look is actually post WWII. You really should leave J Press behind. Their jackets are drab and shapeless and terribly, terribly dated.

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I actually like their three button suit where the lapel is pressed over. And although you may find J Press dated I am only a 21 year old, and as much as I would love a bespoke suit, it may be a few years. I am a better formal dresser than anyone else I know a this age. Assuming I am going to be buying 2-3 more suits in the next year, what would you recommend in the J. Press and Brooks Brothers price range. The thing is that I can get a pretty sharp (I don't care about fashionable at all, just something that will always look good) Super 120's suit for $600. I can get the same from Brooks on sale. What else should I be looking at in that price range?

I will probably get some custom shirts from Brooks, but I don't know about suits yet. I am a 46 XL who needs 38 or 40 at most waist trousers and a 17.5/36 shirt, so I am pretty difficult to be fitted. For instance I first looked at a Brooks Super 120's blazer, but it just did not fit my frame right whereas the J Press fit great.

So in lieu of the fact I will be in the market for a charcoal, and a navy pinstripe suit for sure, what would you reccomend?

Also, I currently have Alden's maroon/cordovan color loafers and blakc captoed lace ups. I will probably get a pair of loafers in black and captoad maroons. Anything else I should consider? Brands other than Aldens in the $350 a pair range?

Obviously this will all be necessary for the boardroom.

[edtost]

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The thing is that I can get a pretty sharp (I don't care about fashionable at all, just something that will always look good) Super 120's suit for $600. I can get the same from Brooks on sale. What else should I be looking at in that price range?

I will probably get some custom shirts from Brooks, but I don't know about suits yet. I am a 46 XL who needs 38 or 40 at most waist trousers and a 17.5/36 shirt, so I am pretty difficult to be fitted. For instance I first looked at a Brooks Super 120's blazer, but it just did not fit my frame right whereas the J Press fit great.

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assuming you are near nyc, this guy does a seemingly decent made-to-measure for ~6-800, depending on fabric choice, and though i have no opinion on brooks/j press/whoever, the bold statement above leads me to think MTM might be something to look into.

note: i am not an experienced suit buyer by any means, just a kid out of college who did some research because he needed one decent suit 'for the boardroom' and wound up happy with the result.