Stud-hi beginner question.

[Biggle10]

So I've recently started playing stud and I'm learning. (5-10 live). Bring in is $2 and ante's are a dollar. If it matters (not sure), the bring-in is directly to my right. Only one A behind me. The game is generally what I would call tight-ish passive.

On 3rd street Ihave (T9)Q suited. Is this worth a raise or cap on 3rd..
a.) Ever. All cards live. (no clubs, no J's dead)
b.) if some cards dead (one J and one club dead)
c.) if 3-4 cards dead (one J, 2 clubs, an 8)

Do a couple of dead 8's or K's weaken my hand significantly?

[electrical]

This hand is almost always worth a limp, unless 3 or more clubs are out. You have a gapped three-straight, which is a nice plus, but not why you play this hand. You are playing it because it can make a flush, which is huge, or big pairs/two-pairs, which are bread-and-butter hands.

You don't raise in early position with a hand like this because you don't want small card draws (especially three-straights) and small pairs to fold. Those are the hands you want to play against. You will also be folding Fourth most of the time, so it makes sense to pay the minimum to do so.

The worst case for a hand like this is heads-up against an overpair, and if you think that's how you will be playing, you're better off folding cheaply. The number of people playing (and hence the implied odds on your investment) are far more important than whether or not the pot has been raised. I will call two raises cold in a five-way pot, no problem. I will fold to a completion if it's heads-up against an overcard.

For a more detailed description of how to play these hands, refer to the stud section of Super-System and the Third Street material in 7CSFAP. Those two books will set you back about 2BB, and getting them is the most +EV play you can make in this game.

[Andy B]

Most of the value of your hand comes from the fact that you have a three-flush. The straight possibility and the fact that you've got some decent high cards change this from a good hand to a very good hand, assuming your cards are reasonably live.

With all cards live, I would be willing to play for a cap, although I'd probably put in one raise at most myself.

With one club and all four Jacks gone, I would be willing to play this hand for two bets, although I wouldn't raise myself. Well, if I limped, the Ace made it a full bet, and four people called, I'd probably pop on the backside, but that's just me.

With two clubs gone, it becomes more marginal, but I probably still play it. The straight possibility helps.


Is editing things like "marignal" well after the fact an abuse of my mod powers?

[The Worm]

[ QUOTE ]
This hand is almost always worth a limp, unless 3 or more clubs are out. You have a gapped three-straight, which is a nice plus, but not why you play this hand. You are playing it because it can make a flush, which is huge, or big pairs/two-pairs, which are bread-and-butter hands.

You don't raise in early position with a hand like this because you don't want small card draws (especially three-straights) and small pairs to fold. Those are the hands you want to play against. You will also be folding Fourth most of the time, so it makes sense to pay the minimum to do so.

The worst case for a hand like this is heads-up against an overpair, and if you think that's how you will be playing, you're better off folding cheaply. The number of people playing (and hence the implied odds on your investment) are far more important than whether or not the pot has been raised. I will call two raises cold in a five-way pot, no problem. I will fold to a completion if it's heads-up against an overcard.

For a more detailed description of how to play these hands, refer to the stud section of Super-System and the Third Street material in 7CSFAP. Those two books will set you back about 2BB, and getting them is the most +EV play you can make in this game.

[/ QUOTE ]


Because of the High ANte in this game, I think you call HU against a higher door raising. In the 5/10 game, if an Ace raises and everyone folds to you last, you are getting 3/1 to call. If your opponent has say AKA, you are just a 60/40 dog on 3rd. If he has AKQ, unsooted, you are a 60/40 favorite. If you pick up the 4th club on 4th, and opponent bricks, you are better than a coinflip even against the overpair. Considering NO ONE folds aces in 5/10 live, you are getting pretty good implied odds because you will be paid off when you hit. If you brick 4th, then oh well.

[SweetLuckyMe]

It depends on which cards are dead, and how tight/passive the table is. With the $1 ante $5/10 game you mention I feel this hand will always be worth a raise first in with just the one overcard behind you - unless there are a pile of dead cards out. If many flush cards are dead, but your pair and straight cards are live I'd always raise - if the flush cards are very live I'd play it a bit slower and try to encourage customers.

You can't steal all of those big fat antes in this tight/passive game if you don't raise 3rd. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]