Info on Selling a Used Car

[Alobar]

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the car just had an oil change, and a minor tune up because it just had to go in to pass emmisions within the last few weeks. so it is fine on that front.

the engine light is always on in the car. that is something that i'm worried about. I guess i will just tell the buyers it's like a lot of cars with 100k miles, and the light always comes on a day or two after it goes into the shop.

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find out how to reset the light and then reset it before a buyer comes to look at it.

Id be REALLY put off if I looked at a car and the guy was like "oh yeah, thats just normal, all cars are like that"

[GTL]

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the car just had an oil change, and a minor tune up because it just had to go in to pass emmisions within the last few weeks. so it is fine on that front.

the engine light is always on in the car. that is something that i'm worried about. I guess i will just tell the buyers it's like a lot of cars with 100k miles, and the light always comes on a day or two after it goes into the shop.

[/ QUOTE ]

find out how to reset the light and then reset it before a buyer comes to look at it.

Id be REALLY put off if I looked at a car and the guy was like "oh yeah, thats just normal, all cars are like that"

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I understand. thing is, the light really is always on. it gets reset by the mechanic and then turns on during the drive home. i think it would be worse to have the light turn on during a test drive

[n.s.]

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the car just had an oil change, and a minor tune up because it just had to go in to pass emmisions within the last few weeks. so it is fine on that front.

the engine light is always on in the car. that is something that i'm worried about. I guess i will just tell the buyers it's like a lot of cars with 100k miles, and the light always comes on a day or two after it goes into the shop.

[/ QUOTE ]

find out how to reset the light and then reset it before a buyer comes to look at it.

Id be REALLY put off if I looked at a car and the guy was like "oh yeah, thats just normal, all cars are like that"

[/ QUOTE ]

I understand. thing is, the light really is always on. it gets reset by the mechanic and then turns on during the drive home. i think it would be worse to have the light turn on during a test drive

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I would really get this fixed - it's probably something minor, but I doubt anyone wants to pay $6K for a car with the CEL light always on. It's definitely a big red flag.

[JasonK]

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the car just had an oil change, and a minor tune up because it just had to go in to pass emmisions within the last few weeks. so it is fine on that front.

the engine light is always on in the car. that is something that i'm worried about. I guess i will just tell the buyers it's like a lot of cars with 100k miles, and the light always comes on a day or two after it goes into the shop.

[/ QUOTE ]

find out how to reset the light and then reset it before a buyer comes to look at it.

Id be REALLY put off if I looked at a car and the guy was like "oh yeah, thats just normal, all cars are like that"

[/ QUOTE ]

I understand. thing is, the light really is always on. it gets reset by the mechanic and then turns on during the drive home. i think it would be worse to have the light turn on during a test drive

[/ QUOTE ]

I would really get this fixed - it's probably something minor, but I doubt anyone wants to pay $6K for a car with the CEL light always on. It's definitely a big red flag.

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Take the bulb out?

[z28dreams]

A few thoughts:

At this selling point you really don't want to spend any money repairing big-ticket things (windshield, etc).

DO:
- have the car sparkling clean - vacuumed, etc
- have ready all records of oil changes and service done to show that you've maintained the car
- have a clean carfax report ready

* ABSOLUTELY get that check engine and any other warning lights turned off. You can go to autozone and they'll run an odbii scanner on it to see what code it's throwing. I imagine having that check engine light on could easily cost you $1000 off the selling price. This is not something you want to explain to the seller.

Think about it this way - the engine is the most important aspect of the car. People know this. How would you feel if you were looking at a used car and that light was on? Would you buy a house if it had a cracked foundation?

Your biggest advantage here is going to be your negotiating skills. Start by knowing what price you want. Make your initial offer a good amount above this. (If you want $6000, I'd start at 7500). When he makes a counteroffer of like 5000, you say, "well, this car is in excellent shape, has all the records accounted for, etc etc." Really take your time... like you don't want to budge. Then, make a TINY offer lower. You want to work your way down in small increments.

It might go something like this: (try to get them to make the first offer):

Them: How about $5000 for the car

You: Well, I had it listed for $7500, and this car is very clean, blah blah #1

Them: Well we can maybe do 5500

You: I don't know, this car ALSO (blah blah #2). Ugh. You know at a dealer you'd pay $8000 for it AND have to pay tax.
I guess I could go $7000

Them: Well, we don't want to spend much more than 5500

You: ...pause...pause..... ok look - I can do 6000, but that's it. Any cheaper than that and I'd rather just sell the car to my cousin for about the same amount.

Them: ok deal!

So main tips:
1 - start high
2 - negotiate down in SMALL increments, let them go up in large increments
3 - don't seem too happy with the final offer, or they'll question if they're being screwed
(also never take their first offer even if it's what you want - if they offer 6000 on the spot negotiate up - not only will you make more but they'll "feel less ripped off")

Hope that helps

[Inso0]

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the car just had an oil change, and a minor tune up because it just had to go in to pass emmisions within the last few weeks. so it is fine on that front.

the engine light is always on in the car. that is something that i'm worried about. I guess i will just tell the buyers it's like a lot of cars with 100k miles, and the light always comes on a day or two after it goes into the shop.

[/ QUOTE ]

find out how to reset the light and then reset it before a buyer comes to look at it.

Id be REALLY put off if I looked at a car and the guy was like "oh yeah, thats just normal, all cars are like that"

[/ QUOTE ]

I understand. thing is, the light really is always on. it gets reset by the mechanic and then turns on during the drive home. i think it would be worse to have the light turn on during a test drive

[/ QUOTE ]

I would really get this fixed - it's probably something minor, but I doubt anyone wants to pay $6K for a car with the CEL light always on. It's definitely a big red flag.

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Take the bulb out?

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85% chance that it's a transmission problem.

14% chance you need a new gas cap.

1% chance everything else.


EDIT: I should note that I'm not a mechanic. But every single car I've owned has had this problem, and that's what I was told each time. Gas cap fixed one of my two tauruses. The rest were tranny codes that would pop up a day or two after they were wiped from the computer.

[GTL]

yeah, i'll keep everyone posted. i will call the mechanic that works on the car. but i don't think he can just make it stay off. i think i'm screwed on that one.

i'll be sure to post a report after it's sold.