PL: Turned non-nut straight on no-lo board

[texnewb]

PLO8 $0.10/$0.25, Party, 8-way
Stack sizes:
hero: $26.35
MP2: $23.65
SB: $14.91

Pre-flop: (8 players) hero is MP1 with 7[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img] T[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img] 8[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img] A[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img]
UTG folds, UTG+1 calls, hero calls, MP2 calls, 2 folds, SB calls, BB checks.

Flop: A[img]/images/graemlins/heart.gif[/img] 9[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img] Q[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img] ($1.25, 5 players)
SB checks, BB checks, UTG+1 checks, hero checks, MP2 checks.

Turn: J[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img] ($1.25, 5 players)
<font color="#cc0000">SB bets $0.25</font>, 2 folds, <font color="#cc0000">Hero?</font>

OK, so I've turned the non-nut straight + a probably worthless top pair on a two-flush board. SB min-bets into me and I've got a player (MP2) to act behind me.
Should I clearly be potting this, only re-evaluating if MP2 calls my raise?
If MP2 calls should I abandon any notions of value betting the river and check-call because of a likely trap?
If MP2 folds and SB calls do you think I can value bet the river if it doesn't pair the board or bring 3 clubs?
If MP2 and SB both call and the river doesn't pair the board or bring clubs should I be more inclined to try a value bet as they might have had draws, or go into check call mode (as if only a better hand would call at these limits, but yeah...)

[aces_full]

Fold preflop. What are you hoping to flop with AT87 anyway? Your suited cards are crummy and you have no chance of low. FWIW 7,8,9 are generally crummy cards to have in your hand, especially two of them. These types of hands also make straights that are not the nuts as well.

As played, I might just dump it. I don't see you winning this one. Villain either has low straight or he's drawing to the flush and trying to peel one on the cheap. In micro/small stakes PLO8 a min-bet is almost always a draw (most likely) or a non-nut high playing scared.

[GaZaZaZa]

STOP PLAYING SHIITT PREFLOP... you'll only ever get yourself in mega trouble doing it, infact especially in micro stakes, being anything less then 0.5/1 or even 1/2.... you could make a very decent profit playing ONLY hands involving A2, and perhaps A3 if theres a suited ace or another wheel card in there!!!! i know this may sound a bit "boring", but heck open up another table, theres plenty around!!!!

[aces_full]

[ QUOTE ]
STOP PLAYING SHIITT PREFLOP... you'll only ever get yourself in mega trouble doing it, infact especially in micro stakes, being anything less then 0.5/1 or even 1/2.... you could make a very decent profit playing ONLY hands involving A2, and perhaps A3 if theres a suited ace or another wheel card in there!!!! i know this may sound a bit "boring", but heck open up another table, theres plenty around!!!!

[/ QUOTE ]

At .5/$1 PL and below 95% of your opponents have no idea what constitutes a good O8 starting hand. Therefore, proper preflop hand selection will put you miles ahead of them. So what hands do you play? Well your goal in pot limit is to win 3/4 of the pot. So you pick starting hands that have the potential to make both high and low, or high only hands with all cards over ten (although I will often play high hands with a 9 like 9TJQ etc).

Typically in early position I will play any 4 wheel cards, any 4 broadway cards, any A2 with either two broadway sidecards or the ace suited. Same for A3. I fold marginal hands like A26J, A38T rainbow etc. I also limp with prety much any AAXX hand. Everything else gets folded. In middle position I start playing any A2 hand and some 23 hands like 23KK,23KQ, etc as long as the K is suited. I also add the 9TJQ types of hands. In the last two seats I will play any A2,A3, and most A4 hands, A5XX hands if the ace is suited, and 23XX with the XX being two broadway cards. I will also limp in an unraised pot with any hand that contains all low cards, and occassionally some crappy hands from the button.