Basic Sit 'n Go Questions Answered Here

[WaywardAce]

Is the skill level needed to beat the $5+.50 significantly higher than that needed to beat the $1+.20?

[JereLock]

is there a rake in sng tourneys? or is that what the 3.00+.x is for?

[Poker Clif]

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is there a rake in sng tourneys? or is that what the 3.00+.x is for?

[/ QUOTE ]

For a PokerStars SNG, $1+.20 =

$1 for the prize pool + .20 to Pokerstars = $1.20 to play in the SNG.

So yes, what PokerStars calls a 20 cent "entry fee" is the equivalent of a 20% rake.

Also, PokerStars does not have a rakeback in the usual sense. FPP (Frequent Player Points) are based on amount of rake paid. Those points can be used to buy anything from PokerStars gear, to poker books, to tournament or satellite entries.

I don't know how to compare what you can get from the PokerStars FPP store to cash rakeback at other sites, but if I got a PS T-shirt playing $1 sit-n-goes, it's fair to assume that playing the bigger games would mean you could get an awful lot of stuff, some of which can be quite useful. We all buy poker books, after all.

[TheNextLevel]

Collin, let me say first that I bought your book and I think it is a great read and I feel I have improved already. My question though is not strategy related as it is more one of practical advice.

I normally play cash games (I am a student, so I try to make about $200 or so a day to cover expenses), but the swings can be huge so I decided to study sit n gos as I have read that variance is a little more stable. My question is do you think with expert play would it be possible to have a more consistent income from sit n gos rather than cash games? For example, is it unrealistic for me to think that I can play X amount of sit n gos and at the end of the day earn X money more or less? Thanks again for your thoughts.

[Acein8ter]

How often should someone steel the blinds when in the middle game to ~3 players? (Given that our stack size is average) Should we constantly be applying pressure on the blinds when folded to on the button?

Would you attempt a steel from the CO position?

How often do you attempt a re-steel from the BB? Only when the button is over active?

TIA

[basementproject]

[ QUOTE ]
Is the skill level needed to beat the $5+.50 significantly higher than that needed to beat the $1+.20?

[/ QUOTE ]

I play the 5's, and I can tell you right now, NO!

The 1s can be a bitch because of variance. Players down there literally have no clue, and will give you a hard time because of it.

At 5, generally people are aware of BASIC strategy, aka 'dont limp with K6o UTG', and you can take advantage of it easily.

5s are not tough at all.

Just make sure you're rolled for them, as with any level.

[suitsme]

I have a more general question about SnG's. I normally play cash games but this question came to me when I played a live SnG with some friends (lets say equally good-bad players).

We're in the first blind -level and everybody has aproximately 100BBs. To make a long story short the SB does a slightly +EV push on the flop for lets say 90BB.
Gets called, looses the hand and is out of the game.

My question: Is a +EV action in a SnG always a good move? Which other things should we take in consideration also?

[Boise123]

What are your thoughts on Poker Tracker and or Poker Office.
Thanks

[Collin Moshman]

TheNextLevel, glad you enjoyed the book. While it is unrealistic, unfortunately, to have a daily profit goal -- SNGs are a comparatively low-fluctuation form of poker. In an MTT for instance, 10-20% are paid on average, whereas in a 3-paid 9-man SNG, 1/3 are paid.

Acein8ter, you should steal-raise fairly often in high-blind short-handed play. The tighter the blinds are, and the better you are at post-flop play (so that you'll have a good strategy for when you do get called) -- the more likely you should be to steal. Resteal from the big blind when you have a premium hand, or you put your opponent on a steal and find it likely he'll fold immediately. Even then you want your hand to have some showdown value and you don't want to risk way more than you'd be getting (e.g., avoid RSing when the raise is to 300 and you each have 3000 behind).

suitsme, if you mean +$$ action, then yes. If you mean +chip action, then no ... you are often correct to decline.
This is a very big theme in SNG Strategy.

Boise123, I think tracking software is an excellent investment. I have the standard # Hands/VPIP/PFR/AF above all my opponents while I'm playing. My personal preference between the two is Office since I find the interface to be a little more user-friendly, but you can't go wrong.

Keep on crushing your games,
Collin

[QuadDamage]

I originally started at the $1+0.20 just because it was the lowest buy-in. I'd recommend getting away from these as soon as possible if you are in any way serious about playing. The 20% rake is a real killer and even if you're beating it, what are you making, $3 a session?

In addition, the game you must play to beat $1 is probably bad for your long-term development. It's often said that you should play aggressively. One key benefit of being aggressive is that you might get your opponent to fold a better hand--something that isn't going to happen too often with the calling stations at a $1 table. I've found that I've often done better playing weak-tight at $1, something you do not want to do at higher buy-ins.

There are many players at $5 that are very exploitable, but for the most part you will find a game resembling poker, not bingo. In other words, a player at $5 might call your raise with QJ, while you'll find people calling your raises with J4s at $1.

To reiterate, unless you are just playing for sheer entertainment or only have $20 left in your account, move to $5.