B&M bankroll questions

[CobraGoat]

I am from Pittsburgh PA, no cardrooms here, thus i am primarily an online player with occasional forays to B&M establishments around the country.

WV opened up cardrooms this past weekend. MOuntaineer will be the room i frequent and is presently spreading a 1/2 50-300NL game.

With this in mind, is a ~$2500 BR ok to start with? Also, i am considering opening a second checking account just for my B&M roll? Thoughts? Is this standard?

[davidlong14]

BR s/b $5-6k + for this game...

[CobraGoat]

thoughts on tracking BR for B&M games? do you keep funds separate?

[Seb86]

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thoughts on tracking BR for B&M games? do you keep funds separate?

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YES

[Mark1808]

I have been playing B&M for 3 years and for the first year I played $100 & $200 NL with my biggest downswing being $1,500, I have played the $500 ($5-$10) NL for two and a half years with $5,000 being the biggest down swing.

I would still recommend a bank roll of at least 20 BI's and 25 - 30 BI's to be more conservative. It is psychologically better for me to play if I know a terrible down swing will not put a significant dent in my bank roll. I can play optimally without worrying about being felted.

I believe that your poker money should be completely seperate.

[eof]

assuming you're a strong player (and if you're winning nl online you are) 2.5k bankroll *should* be fine.. especially if you buy in for 200 until you're upto 5k or so. i've never had more than a 6 buy in swing at 1/2 and 1/3 with 200 dollar buy ins, actually the biggest i remember is 4 and that was really really bad.

this game will probably be uber soft and as long as you aren't super lag you're variance should be relatively minimal

[Witzo]

I personally would never buy in for less then the max. You want to maximizes wins.
I think a $2500 bankroll is fine if your not playing daily.
I personally just deposit poker money with my normal money but I keep spreadsheets of wins/losses.
It's easy to set up an excel file with date played, game played # of hours logged and how much you won-lost.
Then you can easily figure out hourly rate based on those #'s.

[Landlord79]

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I played $100 & $200 NL with my biggest downswing being $1,500,

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<font color="blue"> Am there now! </font>

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I believe that your poker money should be completely seperate.

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<font color="blue"> QFT </font>

[ninjadanger]

man thats sweet max buy at this 1/2 game is $300. the cardrooms within driving distance of here put a $100 max on the 1/2 games and it sucks. the games are really juicy but getting over the 50BB hump can be tough when you first sit.

I think you can do it with $2,500 if you are sitting with $200. obv more would be better but as long as you don't run like absolute [censored] you should be good to go.

[deehi]

I began playing the BM 1/2 NL with what I had; $300. The first weekend that I went down to Atlantic City I played weak-tight, protecting my bankroll and came away a $650 winner. From there I built it to a workable bankroll to play a bit looser and more aggressive.

The small stakes games in most casinos are easily beatable. I am the last person that will say, "ah, just go out there and crush the games" because I do not know your skill level. However, if the 1/2 game that you play in is anything like the games in AC $2500 will be more than enough to play right in these games.

Many of the players I come across have all of the same characteristics:

1. Play too many hands. period
2. They limp hand and the hands that they limp are usually trash hands, i.e. J3s 43o A2o J9s, etc.
3. They will happily cold call a raise OOP in order to reign in any "aggressive" players
4. Most of them have the attention span of a gnat and will not notice that you have not played a hand for forty-minutes and just can't seem to believe that the river allin checkraise is for real.
5. They bluff way,way too much.
6. They call too many bets.

These are just some of what you will see at the tables. GL