general question re: jamming the pot

[TheCount212]

I recently made the leap from HE to O8, playing only live 3/6. I imagine a difficult part of the game is determining when/whether someone is jamming the pot to (a) bluff/semibluff out low drawers (b) has an uncounterfeitable low or (c) has a nut high and wants to drive out low drawers to scoop.
Any general advice or thoughts on this?

[Buzz]

[ QUOTE ]
Any general advice or thoughts on this?

[/ QUOTE ]Count - Not really. Different individuals play differently. You just have to learn how all your opponents play. There's no way around it. To add to your woes, different individuals play differently against some opponents or some mixes than others. And some opponents shift gears or mix up their play more than others.

Buzz

[BigBadBabar]

count, at 3/6 people are going to be playing fairly passively, straightforwardly and chasing a lot. if someone goes bananas, watch out.

[steamboatin]

[ QUOTE ]
count, at 3/6 people are going to be playing fairly passively, straightforwardly and chasing a lot. if someone goes bananas, watch out.



[/ QUOTE ]

Stay away from Casino Argosy in Lawrenceburg, IN [near Cincy) unless you want your preconceptions challenged. $5-10 with a full kill capped preflop seven ways on a kill pot and basically ever hand raised at least once preflop.

[BigBadBabar]

good point steam, i was thinking of just the low limit very passive older folks game played at my local casino. you're right that games can vary wildly all over the place.

[fishyak]

At Commerce, I just look at who is sitting at the table(s) before I sign up. The games can vary from watching paint dry (back to 4/8 LLHE!) to capped PF family pots that mean you had better have at least $400 with you for just a simple game of 3/6 O/8 full kill. I will say the most common table is LAP.

Within 1 orbit, you'll know what you've got. These days, I'll hang with any of it except the drying paint variety.