1/2 NL with 100 max buy in.

[Witzo]

I personally don't mind the $100 buy in 1/2 NL at the Seneca casinos. The players are absolutely terrible and if you're patient and play good hands in position it's easy to win stacks. The key in my opinion is to just push your edges and if you get unlucky then so be it. Assuming you don't mind reloading a few times the game is very beatable.

Granted, theres times I go there, have $700 in front of me and have only beat the game for $100 or $200 but gambling is about taking small edges and being willing to go for em.

[jeffnc]

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There are also players who buy in for less, and who then play scared. They are easy to identify, and it is not hard to push them around.

In these $100 max buyin games, it is very easy for big stacks to repeatedly pick up the small stacks. It doesn't matter whether small stacks have an advantage in some theoretical sense; in these games, the small stacks are there to be taken.

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A big stack has nothing to do with it. You can scare a $100 no more with $500 than you can with $100. (Unless, as another poster mentioned, there is a player so stupid that he thinks $500 can hurt his $100 stack more than $100.)

[Overseer55]

The Fallsview 1/2 game is verrrrrrry soft. A lot of people give poker a try, plop down $100, and after a few hands of folding get antsy and get all the money in the middle. They don't mind too much since, to many of them, poker is like BJ (where losing $100 in 5 minutes is no big deal).

A downside of a $300 max buy-in is the fish will be thinking, "everyone else at the game has $300+, I don't want to put that kind of money in play". I would much rather play with fish who are 'restricted' to buying in for $100 than to only play with better players that can buy-in for $300 at a 1/2 NL game.

[the_casino_kid]

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when you are sitting on 500+ be aggressive and steal pots

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Someone already tried the "big stacks punishing little stacks in cash games" level. It didn't work then.

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It does work. In these games, lots of new players are buying in, and are trying to take shots to double up so that they can play 100bb or more. Few of them have the patience to play the small stack the way it should be played; most of them are in speculatively. It's easy to tell who is who.

There are also players who buy in for less, and who then play scared. They are easy to identify, and it is not hard to push them around.

In these $100 max buyin games, it is very easy for big stacks to repeatedly pick up the small stacks. It doesn't matter whether small stacks have an advantage in some theoretical sense; in these games, the small stacks are there to be taken.

[/ QUOTE ]

exactly, most of the time you will find the person calling you their whole stack with pretty much nothing..and please don't talk about places you prolly havent played..

[chillywater8]

The game is very beatable in South Florida. Table selection is important I like to find a table with plenty of 200+ stacks or one with at least one guy whipping out 100's to prove his status, these tables are very easy to find and every table has a couple guys with no idea how to play poker, just there to gambool. I have watched alot of the 2/5NL 100 max here in South FL and will try it soon, I believe there is money to be made at these tables also with correct stratagy. I think a $10-15 win rate(1/2NL 100 max) for a slightly below average player(myself) is very realistic and likely double or more that at 2/5. A good player should be able make more. I think the 2/5 sessions will need to be long to be profitable(8-12 hour sessions), 24 hour casinos are likely best for that.

[ThaHero]

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(Unless, as another poster mentioned, there is a player so stupid that he thinks $500 can hurt his $100 stack more than $100.)

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That's all I was asserting. I of course wasn't trying to argue that playing big stack poker in a cash game is a viable strategy.

Also, playing with a short stack can be a pain sometimes, but it's a necessary evil. It keeps the bad players in the game longer.

[jjshabado]

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A downside of a $300 max buy-in is the fish will be thinking, "everyone else at the game has $300+, I don't want to put that kind of money in play". I would much rather play with fish who are 'restricted' to buying in for $100 than to only play with better players that can buy-in for $300 at a 1/2 NL game.

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The players at 300-max suck. Any skill-edge they have against 100-max players is more than made up for the fact that they're losing more money.

[jjshabado]

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I think a $10-15 win rate(1/2NL 100 max) for a slightly below average player(myself) is very realistic and likely double or more that at 2/5.

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Not true, a slightly below average player will lose money (and quite a bit of it). [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

[KurtSF]

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I think a $10-15 win rate(1/2NL 100 max) for a slightly below average player(myself) is very realistic and likely double or more that at 2/5.

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Not true, a slightly below average player will lose money (and quite a bit of it). [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

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To clarify, at $4 rake and 30 hands per hour, an average player is losing $12 an hour. A slightly below average player loses $15 an hour, not wins $15 an hour.

[frommagio]

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There are also players who buy in for less, and who then play scared. They are easy to identify, and it is not hard to push them around.

In these $100 max buyin games, it is very easy for big stacks to repeatedly pick up the small stacks. It doesn't matter whether small stacks have an advantage in some theoretical sense; in these games, the small stacks are there to be taken.

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A big stack has nothing to do with it. You can scare a $100 no more with $500 than you can with $100. (Unless, as another poster mentioned, there is a player so stupid that he thinks $500 can hurt his $100 stack more than $100.)

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Jeff, I think your imagination may be a bit hampered by not having experienced these games. You have to see it to believe it. These games are very profitable, and the method that I described is a reliable way to crush them.