Common No Limit Situation

[SpeakEasy]

[ QUOTE ]
First of all, BB can't really be semi-bluffing here. I have to put him on Axh, A7, A8, 78, 77 or 88.

[/ QUOTE ]

So when you hit your Ace with AQ, but someone bets before you, you always assume you're beat by everything he might hold except the Axh hand, and just fold? Kinda weak-tight, no?

[FineVol]

I agree with you speak.

[Bet-and-win88]

Call me a pussy, but I fold this.
First of all you should be beaten already. This bet shows so much strength that it should be two pair or better. If he has a weak ace like AT, would he really bet into the preflopraiser if it's likely that he got a better ace?
Semi bluffing is almost impossible there.
If you're raising, are there any worse hands that call and better hands that'll fold? Every set and two pair will call and AJ or worse will fold. Some draws may pay to hit, but you can't be sure that he's drawing.
Suppose you raise here and got two callers. You fire another barrel on the turn when no heart and/or straight card comes up and got called. Another blank on the river and the BB moves in. Can you call it?
Suppose you call and another player calls behind you. A blank comes on the turn and the BB fires out again.
What are you supposed to do there?
I think this is a spot where you can lose a huge pot because you have no idea where you stand and it's too expensive to find out. And you have almost no chance of improvement and you might be dead to runner-runner FH or Quads. If the Qh comes off you may be up against a flush and if an Ace comes you might lose all your money against a full house.
All in all a ugly spot to be in and I'd go out there as cheaply as possible.

[Dromar]

I think that, because of the fact that there are so many players behind you when you make this decision, you have to either raise to drive them out, or give up and fold.

Unless I had a read that would make me want to fold, I'd raise here, even though it makes my hand fairly apparent. And of course I would have to fold to a reraise. If he calls, the rest of the hand is read-dependent. I would really like to check the turn to control the pot size, but that seems a bit hypocritical given that I just raised the flop.

So I'm in a situation where I need to discourage the players behind me from calling, yet keep the pot as small as possible.

Believe it or not, I think a minraise to 1200 is right here. Any more is just giving away money. It gives the players behind odds just bad enough that they'll have a tough time continuing with any hand they wouldn't be willing to reraise with. Add to that the fact that they have to worry about BB re-raising, and they've got to fold their draws and weaker hands. Of course, we're not worried about BB re-raising, because we know we're folding, and in that case we've gotten out as cheaply as possible. So the idea is that we threaten the other players with the possibility of a reraise from the BB, rather than with our own money.
So I'd say minraise to 1200. If I get reraised, fold. If everyone folds to BB who calls, I would be inclined to check the turn and look for a cheap showdown.

[FineVol]

[ QUOTE ]
I think that, because of the fact that there are so many players behind you when you make this decision, you have to either raise to drive them out, or give up and fold.

Unless I had a read that would make me want to fold, I'd raise here, even though it makes my hand fairly apparent. And of course I would have to fold to a reraise. If he calls, the rest of the hand is read-dependent. I would really like to check the turn to control the pot size, but that seems a bit hypocritical given that I just raised the flop.

So I'm in a situation where I need to discourage the players behind me from calling, yet keep the pot as small as possible.

Believe it or not, I think a minraise to 1200 is right here. Any more is just giving away money. It gives the players behind odds just bad enough that they'll have a tough time continuing with any hand they wouldn't be willing to reraise with. Add to that the fact that they have to worry about BB re-raising, and they've got to fold their draws and weaker hands. Of course, we're not worried about BB re-raising, because we know we're folding, and in that case we've gotten out as cheaply as possible. So the idea is that we threaten the other players with the possibility of a reraise from the BB, rather than with our own money.
So I'd say minraise to 1200. If I get reraised, fold. If everyone folds to BB who calls, I would be inclined to check the turn and look for a cheap showdown.

[/ QUOTE ]I like this also, betting to make a statement but not risking to much money.

[cgrohman]

I try to stay away from games that have generally good players.

[FineVol]

Will Dave reveal the best coarse of action to us? WWDD

[JJNJustin]

Raise for value all-in since your hand figures to better than his since you are far superior.

-J

[jogger08152]

Never played this size game, but without player reads, I'd fold here immediately:

[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img]The strength of BB's bet suggests I am behind at the moment.
[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img]Against any hand I am currently behind, I'm drawing very thin.
[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img]Many players remain to act behind me, all of whom had enough hand to call my (tight) UTG PFR.
[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img]Whether I am ahead or behind at the moment, unless I go all-in immediately, there are many turn and river cards that will cause me to lose even if I am ahead at the moment, whether by forcing me to fold the best hand or by outdrawing me.
[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img]If I don't push immediately, I am laying implied odds if I continue: I have a hand that wants a cheap showdown and I have no way to get it. Thus if I am beat, I stand to lose a lot.
[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img] The flip side of the same coin: If I play on, I stand to win only a little when I'm ahead, unless BB or one of the other players is a maniac - but if they are, I can pick a better spot later and likely break one or more of them with quite a bit less risk.
[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img]I believe that if I go all-in, my push will be called (and lose) more than 13-to-2.

For the record though, I think a push is less expensive than the 1200 or 1800 dollar raise some have suggested. I would expect the small raise to lose almost every time, whereas a push might knock out AK or A[img]/images/graemlins/heart.gif[/img]x[img]/images/graemlins/heart.gif[/img].

[pete fabrizio]

there are so many pussies in this thread it is unbelievable.