The Well: cts - Page 14

cts · #**131** 08-08-2006, 05:00 AM

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Thanks man. How do you feel breaking up the aggression per streets helps your reads where total aggression does not. Give example if possible.

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I guess I don't use the AF a whole lot, as I'm not really sure how it's calculated, but for example there are some players who just NEVER call on the flop. I'll notice a really high AF, and a high raise flop % and I'll be more likely to 3-bet these guys with a draw/bluff etc since they are raising the flop with so many hands (and probably bluffs too).

cts · #**132** 08-08-2006, 05:00 AM

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What should I get for dinner tonight?

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Burger King and it's not close.

cts · #**133** 08-08-2006, 05:01 AM

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did you by chance go to TJ?

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Nope.

cts · #**134** 08-08-2006, 05:04 AM

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Earlier you gave us an idea of the hands you open with. If someone is reraising you alot preflop, will you tighten up your normal range, call the raises, or 3 bet preflop more often? Thanks for taking the time. I really appreciate it.

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Good question and this is a tough spot. This is why it's so hard to play against a player like BLd. He reraises you SO often preflop and then postflop applies a ridiculous amount of pressure and tries to get you to play a huge pot. He's also a very good hand reader and gets away well when he's beat. Ideally you want to switch tables/seats.

With 100BB stacks, I basically never 4-bet preflop in a heads-up situation. I think this makes it harder for my opponents to play against me in reraised pots in general, an area they already have big leaks in. Some people adjust their 4-betting range when reraised a lot, but I don't really do this with 100BBs because 4-betting and folding to a 5-bet isn't very mathematically sound unless you are 4-betting pretty small. Tightening up your opening range is ideal if you are being reraised too often. Calling reraises OOP with 74s or whatever is not ideal [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img].

cts · #**135** 08-08-2006, 05:06 AM

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What sites do you play?

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Basically only on Party. I have accounts on other sites but it can be hard to get enough money into them to play high stakes. I've been playing some on UB lately and I really like the software. They have some of the highest stakes on the net too which is nice.

The Monster promo is awful for SSNLers, but it is incredible for 5/10 and 10/20 NL at Party. Before the number of tables was capped and it was tough to game select with the really long waitlists. Now the waitlists are non-existent and the games are very fishy.

cts · #**136** 08-08-2006, 05:07 AM

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So if i 3-table, do I need a total of 60 buy-ins? (yikes!)

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lol no, multitabling shouldn't really affect bankroll requirements. Note that I recommend moving up when you reach 30 buyins for the next level, not 20. For reference, I've had a 20 buy-in downswing before (at 10/20).

cts · #**137** 08-08-2006, 05:08 AM

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I am curious what I should be doing in $1/2 NL 6 max games when I'm in the CO or button with a hand like 22-66 and suited connectors 67 suited and up when I have 1 or 2 limpers.

I am always stuck between limping and raising the limpers.

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Raise it up! There is a good thread on "why to raise preflop" jkrantz started in MSNL a month or two ago, probably some explanation in there, but especially with a hand like 22 it's a raise and it's not close.

cts · #**138** 08-08-2006, 05:15 AM

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Also Im interested in this general line. You are playing 6 max and have Axs in the cutoff.2 limpers in front and you limp. Flop is 9 8 4 with two spades (Say you have a6s).

You decide to bet (whats a solid amount here of the pot)

Say you are called by the button and are OOP on the turn and it blanks for you, say a Jd.

Whats your plan? Fire again?

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On the flop it is a limped pot so I basically never bet less than the full pot. The turn card is not a great card for a second barrel. If the button called with any sort of OESD/gutshot/overs he has probably at least made a pair. Still, usually I'll go ahead and full pot it again here. I think you fold out lousy one pair hands often enough and you still have a good amount of equity if called. It's always a bit of a tough spot because it's hard to tell if the jack helped him or will scare him. Here's a hand I played tonight (not saying I played it well or anything) that involved playing a flush draw OOP. On the turn I thought I could fold out a bunch of one pair hands so I fired again and this kind of backfired. I picked up a gutshot to the nuts as well though so I had a lot of equity. The moral is, don't minraise the turn on a drawy board [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

Party Poker No-Limit Hold'em, $10 BB (6 handed)

UTG ($1915.12)
Hero ($1274.50)
CO ($2709.30)
Button ($944.75)
SB ($2390.75)
BB ($1472)

Preflop: Hero is MP with 4[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img], A[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img]. SB posts a blind of $5.
1 fold, Hero raises to $35, CO calls $35, Button calls $35, 2 folds.

Flop: ($120) J[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img], T[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img], 3[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img] (3 players)
Hero bets $87, CO folds, Button calls $87.

Turn: ($294) K[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img] (2 players)
Hero bets $251, Button raises to $502, Hero calls $251.

River: ($1298) 7[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img] (2 players)
Hero calls $650.50 (All-In), Button calls $320.75 (All-In).

Final Pot: $2269.25

Hero has 4s As (flush, ace high).
Button has 9c Qc (straight, king high).
Outcome: Hero wins $2269.25.

younghov17 · #**139** 08-08-2006, 07:14 AM

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So if i 3-table, do I need a total of 60 buy-ins? (yikes!)

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lol no, multitabling shouldn't really affect bankroll requirements. Note that I recommend moving up when you reach 30 buyins for the next level, not 20. For reference, I've had a 20 buy-in downswing before (at 10/20).

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yeah 20 buyin downsings are hell....

according to some here tho u must not have any idea what your doing if u had a 20 buyin downswing.

Stealthy · #**140** 08-08-2006, 08:21 AM

I notice with a lot of the hands you have posted you are happy to take marginal hands to the felt against the right player. What are the signs that you look for when you meet resistance with a decent single pair made hand that would make you prepared to play for stacks v 1 player but insta-muck v another. I know a maniac and a weak/tight player are the two extremes but how about guys that have average stats or you have not noticed up until they raise your flop bet?