P-Stars NL .01/.02 - First deposit of $25 gone in 2 days... help?

[Quicksilvre]

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If I'm playing $1 buy in, and I started with 25, am I not covered?

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I would say you are covered--a good player would be covered with $20 at NL2. However, if you lost $25 a dollar at a time in a couple of days down there, your game needs work. It is indeed quite likely that you are playing too many hands, so check out kayaker's hand start advice.

Here's another opinion from Pokey in the micro NL forum, albeit one that's more intended for NL10 and NL25:

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1. From EP, play tighter-than-tight. I play any pocket pair, AK, AQ, maybe AJ and KQ (depending on the table and my image); that's it. I'm raising with AA-TT and AK, AQ, AJ, and KQ (if I play them). Sometimes I'll raise 99 and 88 as well.
2. From MP, I don't open-limp. If the hand is good enough to play, it's good enough to raise as the first player in. I'll add suited connectors down to T9s into my lineup, and unsuited QJ or JT. I'll also consider open-raising any two if my table image is tight and the players behind me are tight preflop and/or horrible (or even just weak-tight) postflop.
3. From LP, if it's folded to me, I'm open-raising with any pair, any ace, any king, any two honors, any suited connectors down to 54s, any unsuited connectors down to 87o. I make steal attempts a bit over 1/3 of the time, and it's wildly profitable. I also follow up ANY steal attempt with a continuation bet, regardless of the board or my hand. I will, however, quickly release a garbage hand if I'm reraised preflop or bet into on the flop; there's no reason to stick around if you get caught stealing.
4. From LP after limpers, I tighten up a bit on my raising standards but still play very loose: I'll raise any suited ace, any pair AA-TT, AK, AQ, AJ, KQ, and QJ; I'll add in any other pair and suited or unsuited connectors if I'm feeling frisky and my image is tight. I'll at least limp with suited connectors and any pair regardless.

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http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/sh...age=0&vc=1

[pzhon]

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You really should start with 20 full buy-ins so you can ride out the big losses.

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No. The problem is not that the OP didn't start with 20 buy-ins. The problem is that the OP is not a winning player yet. A losing player will lose any amount, 1 or 2 dollars at a time. This was almost certainly a downward trend, not a downswing that could be survived with a large enough bankroll. A solid winning player will have an extremely low risk of ruin with only $20 at NL $2 (or NL $5 with a $.02 big blind).

Having a bankroll that would make an expert safe does not turn you into an expert. Bankroll mismanagement is often a scapegoat when a loss is the result of poor play.

One nice thing about soft games is that the long run is shorter. It doesn't take long to see if your skills are weak, and once you improve, you will see the results rapidly.

[basementproject]

How do you 'lose big every so often' when you buy in to a $2NL table for a dollar?

Correct me if I'm wrong but this means you busted out of 25 seperate tables.

I'd be interested to see your PT stats, if you can figure out how to post them. You obviously have some problems in your game and we would be able to tell you exactly what they are if you posted the screenshot.

[JereLock]

I played 3, maybe 4, tables for $3, then read a particular thread and dropped it down to one. I was dual tabling the whole time.

What do you want posted? I have just over 700 hands I do believe. A graph? Etc? I'll figure it out

[Quicksilvre]

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What do you want posted? I have just over 700 hands I do believe.

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Post the stats from your Ring Games page. A graph is OK, but I'm curious to see what your numbers are outside of cash flow.

[tarheeljks]

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You really should start with 20 full buy-ins so you can ride out the big losses.

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No. The problem is not that the OP didn't start with 20 buy-ins. The problem is that the OP is not a winning player yet. A losing player will lose any amount, 1 or 2 dollars at a time. This was almost certainly a downward trend, not a downswing that could be survived with a large enough bankroll. A solid winning player will have an extremely low risk of ruin with only $20 at NL $2 (or NL $5 with a $.02 big blind).

Having a bankroll that would make an expert safe does not turn you into an expert. Bankroll mismanagement is often a scapegoat when a loss is the result of poor play.

One nice thing about soft games is that the long run is shorter. It doesn't take long to see if your skills are weak, and once you improve, you will see the results rapidly.

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sage advice. someone give this man a custom title, like "bankroll sage" or something

[tarheeljks]

given that you've only played 700 hands, hand histories will probably reveal more than your stats

[JereLock]

[Quicksilvre]

I would say that your VPIP is high, and your PFR% is definitely low. You want PFR to be at least half of your VPIP, and you're down around 25%. You're also folding way too many hands when you have an opportunity to take the blinds.

I don't have a whole lot of experience myself; someone who's been around longer will be able to give more useful advice. The idea to post some hand histories is a good one.

[hockeyav]

First I wouldn't worry too much about stealing the blinds at NL2, it just really isn't too beneficial at this level. Remember, play tight starting hands preflop, but when you finally get hands you should be raising most of the time. At these levels it's usually better to sit around and wait for a few monster hands and take down huge pots rather than taking down smaller pots.

Curious, I see my name on the bottom of your poker tracker list (hockeyav), how have you been running against me?