how does this bankroll plan sound?

[hed zup]

Starting roll: $300

0 -> 499 = NLH/PLO 0.05/0.10

500 -> 999 = NLH/PLO 0.10/0.25

1000 -> 2000 = NLH/PLO/HeadsUp 0.25/0.50

2000+ = NLH/PLO/HeadsUp 0.50 1.00


How does this sound?

I dont really care how long this takes to be honest because i have never had money in a poker account for more than 2 weeks i guess.

If i can actually reach 0.50/1.00 using proper bankroll management i would be really happy and proud.

Also because i wont have the ideal amount of buyins for each level i have decided if i drop 4 buyins after moving up ill mover back down.

For example:-

say when i move up to 0.50 1.00 with $2000, then i drop 4 buyins and have a BR of ~1600, i'll move back down to 0.25/0.50.

So how does all this sound? Any recomended ajustments you think i should make to this BR plan?

Ty Ty

[Carolina Pirate]

looks pretty normal. very conservative to begin with allowing for a learning curve and then 20 BI (5%) rule and that's what most would recommend

[Quicksilvre]

Sounds fine. IIRC the bankroll requirements for a decent player are 10 buy-ins for 10NL, 15 buy-ins for 25NL and 20 buy-ins for anything higher than that. You're clear of that here; going conservative is a good route if you don't have a ton of experience.

[ev_slave]

[ QUOTE ]
Sounds fine. IIRC the bankroll requirements for a decent player are 10 buy-ins for 10NL, 15 buy-ins for 25NL and 20 buy-ins for anything higher than that. You're clear of that here; going conservative is a good route if you don't have a ton of experience.

[/ QUOTE ]

I sometimes wonder how long it's been since some of the PBs and other higher # posters have played 10NL. I think that maybe those stakes have gotten a little tougher since they worked through it? 10 Buyins is far too low. I'm in the middle of a downswing where if I only had $100 to start I'd be feeling quite quite nervous.

And players need not be "decent" to be safe. Many talk about how easy the "donks" at these levels are, but even if they call you AI w/ only 20% equity, the hero (whether decent, good, or great) will face more variance than if the villain had the good sense to fold when he was behind, and the pot was scooped with no risk.

I think that 20 is still a good number to start 10NL with, and more is better. I'd hazard a guess that it's the same w/ 25NL.

OP, I think your plan looks pretty solid (at least the first few stages).

[Quicksilvre]

[ QUOTE ]
I sometimes wonder how long it's been since some of the PBs and other higher # posters have played 10NL.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm playing 10NL now, though with a lot more than ten buy-ins (I'm a little short for 25NL). I honestly do feel that the 20 buy-in rule is way too conservative down at the lower levels, though obviously, more buy-ins would be safer and safer is better when you're starting out.

[ev_slave]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I sometimes wonder how long it's been since some of the PBs and other higher # posters have played 10NL.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm playing 10NL now, though with a lot more than ten buy-ins (I'm a little short for 25NL). I honestly do feel that the 20 buy-in rule is way too conservative down at the lower levels, though obviously, more buy-ins would be safer and safer is better when you're starting out.

[/ QUOTE ]

touche'

[Nightlight87]

It was only a reply stating a different opinion to yours? And I agree with it, I think 20 BIs is conservative for at 10NL I started playing it when I had 10BIs and have worked up to 20.

But that was mainly because at 2NL-5Nl the stakes were too low and I found it hard to concentrate and take the game seriously.

[basementproject]

Definitely move up to 25NL after $400. $400 is plenty provided you didn't build your roll purely by luck.

Also, not sure if I'd play different games consistently with the same BR. I'd probably want to keep a seperate one for both NL and PLO. The inherent statistical nature of the two games are slightly different, and as such the variance is going to be different as well (can I say the variance will vary? lol).

This way, if you are profiting hardcore at NL, and running horrid at OH, you don't cut into NL profits by playing short-rolled in case you want to multi-table.

GL!

[Wardfish]

I would build in some sort of withdrawal schedule.

I currently withdraw 10% of my month-end bankroll, because its nice to see something tangible for your efforts, no matter how small.

Also, you need to consider the possibility that you will get stuck at a certain level for a significant period of time. Without seeing some reward you may lose focus and let it affect your game. Imagine the learning golfer who cant break 100 for weeks and weeks before suddenly cracking it and quickly reaching the low 90s. It does happen.

[saskaman]

Worry less about roll and more about skill intially. Too many use the 20 bi rule and forget that they must constantly improve their game to match their level. 20 bi is not a magic number that guarantees success.

Good Luck