Adjusting to loose live play after playing tight internet games

[PorkchopDJG]

I have been playing more live at the local cardrooms lately and have noticed a striking difference in how loose/passive LHE live games (4/8, 6/12) at casinos play compared to the tight/aggressive LHE games (1/2,2/4) on Ultimatebet where I play online. It really is like night or day playing at one compared to the other.

Typical Ultimatebet hand I raise from middle pos everyone folds or I raise from late pos get reraised from button. Miss the flop with my AJ button bets and I fold.
Typical casino hand I raise from early position With AQc three cold callers behind and BB call. Flop comes AJT with two hearts, I bet it gets raised and called twice back to me and I fold it gets played to the river three ways and guy wins with flopped straight.

You can see from the examples that these games play completely different meaning you have to make major adjustments to your game. You can semi-bluff, checkraise and bluff online because people will fold where live these things rarely work because most likely one or two players will call you down to the riv anyway. In the live game you pretty much wait to flop huge hands, value bet and get paid off with a big pot.
I just wanted to put this out there and get other people's views and opinions if they see this so prominently when they play live vs. online.

[Frond]

Concur with you. My very first live experience was a shock to say the least. I was not ready for 7-8 seeing every flop. Way looser and way more passive than I had imagined! At first I didn't figure out why that my TPTK etc. hands were not holding up at all. Finally hit me after a few sessions how to play these tables ala SSHE. I have moved away from LHE more and moved more towards NLHE fo the most part.

LLHE-Forget most of your bluffs, play bigger draw hands in addition to your reg. premium hands. SHowdosn big hands to win most of the time with 7 to a flop.

[ChuckyB]

Bring plenty of patience with you. Like one of the other posters said, you have to show down the best hand. Rarely can you bet anyone off a hand due to pot size and player suckiness.

If six players will see the flop...suited connectors are gold...small pairs are playable for a raise...big suited cards are a raise from just about anywhere on the table...don't get married to big pairs (but they aren't as bad as the yappers at the table will say).

Be aware that you can bet players off of hands if you know how. Perhaps not everyone will fold, but you can getting drawers off hands and that can earn you a pot or two.

[JJNJustin]

Small and medium suited connectors suck in overly loose B&M games because people will routinely call 3-bets cold with K2s, T6s, Q2s, J4s. Save these for no-limit games where you can bust somebody. Maybe play 67s or 67o because you can make that nut straight and everyone with an Ace or 6 will pay off.

Play Axs from any position instead, and maybe raise with it.
Imagine the beauty of having Q4s raise you with a flush draw on the flop, and you have him almost drawing dead.

-J

[what23]

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Small and medium suited connectors suck in overly loose B&M games -J

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i disagree, i play these in late position every time b/c you have the chance to free card play on the flop w/ everyone calling ur raise, also be ready to c/f or c/c on any scarey river card because 95% it did hit someone.

[TripleH68]

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Small and medium suited connectors suck in overly loose B&M games...

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If the game is loose, that is great for suited connectors.
If the game is aggressive, that is not good for suited connectors.

[TheHip41]

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Small and medium suited connectors suck in overly loose B&M games...

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If the game is loose, that is great for suited connectors.
If the game is aggressive, that is not good for suited connectors.

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[ill rich]

frequently attempt check raises in early position.

see the turn with pair plus backdoor flush and an overcard.

do... not.... bluff. but, value bet overcards.

see the flop with any pair in any position.

be ready to dump KK, AA, or QQ on the turn in some situations.

only play suited connectors in late position.

usually, only continue to see 4th street with top pair big kicker, a flush draw, or a straight draw.

don't slowplay anything less than a full house.

with top pair, call the river if it's only one bet back to you.

general starting hand requirements: any pair, any suited connector (LP only), 98s, 9Ts, any two big suited cards, any two big cards (KTo, QJo, JTo, QTo only in LP), any suited ace, any suited king for one bet, protect blinds with suited junk

fold easily dominated hands to a raise

play patient, fold for four hours straight if you need to

[AlienBoy]

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Perhaps not everyone will fold, but you can get players with no cards whatsoever off hands and that can earn you a pot or two that you were destined to win anyway.

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FYP.

[ChuckyB]

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Perhaps not everyone will fold, but you can get players with no cards whatsoever off hands and that can earn you a pot or two that you were destined to win anyway.

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FYP.

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Actually...it was true the first way. But thanks for taking the internet NLHE player's view of small stakes' limit holdem.