Re: observing your opponent
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I believe a big part of the challenge (for me at least) is concentration level. I like to approach every hand assuming I'm NOT going to play in it. That's my first assumption. I am then consciously focused on what can I glean from this hand about my opponents.
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related to this comment although not that i do it, but don't look at your cards until it's your turn, then you'll pay alot more attention.
if you're playing tournaments especially or even cash games, try to watch the blinds when they look at their hands as they'll likely be in the hand or you'll be trying to steal their blinds.
i actually think it's pretty easy to figure out who plays alot of hands vs. very few.. the frequency of raising/continuation betting/bluffing etc. is alot trickier and takes alot of concetration and alot of time.
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