Re: Razz resources?
Maybe you should pick up The Theory of Poker, or possibly, The Mathematics of Poker also. These books detail, in general, how to make such calculations.
For your holdem example, there is little reason to remember percentages for flush draws (although little harm also). I feel it's an inexact method to arrive at decisions, though, and you probably lose some value for it, or make calls you shouldn't.
In holdem, for example, say we're on the turn and we have a flush draw. We've seen exactly 6 cards, our 2 plus 4 on the board, so there are 46 unknown cards. There are, say, 2 flush cards in our hand and 2 on the board, so there are 4 known flush cards and 9 unknown. So your raw chances of making a flush are 9/46.
But say you're afraid of the board pairing. Or that your opponent is drawing to a straight. In the first case you'd want to subtract from your outs and of our suited cards that pair the board. In the second case you'd want to subtract any suited cards that potentially make a flush. Or realistically, in either case, you'd want to subtract a *fraction* of an out, say 1/2, because you don't KNOW if those are good or bad hands for you.
Or, if you have a pair and a flush draw, and the pair is small and you feel it's no good on it's own, you can now add your trip and 2-pair outs (provided they are not also of your suit).
In Theory of Poker and probably SSHE I think Sklansky also points out that you can add partial outs or runner-runner draws if a call is very close otherwise.
Anyway, the point is, if you can do it, you're better off figuring out custom odds for your situation. Even if you don't, you might be better off remembering that THIS time your odds are not 4:1, they're a bit shy of 4:1 and if we're getting right around 4:1 to call, maybe better to fold.
My method for remembering mucked cards is to only worry about cards under 8 to start, and divide them into 2 groups: cards I need and cards I have. As the hand progresses, I make special note of any outs I've seen that pair my opponent. The more of these I see, the less likely he's paired (I rarely try to figure out the actual odds that my opponent is paired. It probably would behoove me to memorize a chart, there)
It is SUPER important to remember how many cards you're drawing to, if nothing else, because the difference between having 0 of your outs visible and 5 is enormous. If you're drawing to, say, a 7, the difference is between 12/35=2:1 against and 7/35=4:1 against.
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