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ATLANTA

Atlanta is a city dominated by suburbs. While Atlanta is America's ninth largest metro area, the city proper is much smaller, containing roughly one tenth the population of the metro area. The one constant thorughout the metro area is growth, whether in the city's three balloning skylines or the sprawling suburbs to the north. Atlanta had a larger raw population growth than any other city in the United States since 2000, and over the next decade it is expected to become one of the five largest cities in the US.

Despite the constant claims of Atlanta as a tourist city with plenty to see and do, I can think of numerous cities throughout the US that would be more interesting destinations for a long weekend.

But whether you're from the southeast and want to get the feel of a really big city, or if you happen to be passing through one of the world's busiest airports, Atlanta is worth a visit.

THE CITY

The city is distinctly focused around a north-south axis. At the bottom is downtown and Turner Field; a couple miles north is the modern skyscaper block of Midtown; a few miles north of that is the staggering growth of Buckhead, Atlanta's most exclusive area.

If you're interested in old neighborhoods or the city itself, check out the neighborhoods east of downtown. The most interesting neighborhoods include the Old Fourth Ward, Cabbagetown, Poncey-Highland, Inman Park, Virginia Highlands, and Ansley Park. This list is in increasing socioeconomic order, and also roughly from south to north. These areas are all safe enough to explore. Castleberry Hill, directly southwest of downtown, is also among the more interesting places.

The only very-unsafe neighborhoods are somewhat well hidden to the southwest and west of downtown, and you can't get yourself into too much trouble in them without trying.

You'll need a car in Atlanta; there's no sense struggling your way through MARTA. You'll need a map, too. The city's winding roads rarely follow a grid, and many streets change names multiple times.

ATTRACTIONS

Atlanta has a few good tourist attractions. In Downtown, the Georgia Aquarium, CNN Center, and the Coke Museum stand side by side next to Centennial Olympic Park. The Aquarium is worthwhile for an afternoon, but I can't comment on the brand new Coke museum; hopefully it's a bit more exciting than its predecessor, which now stands empty next to the blighted Underground Atlanta.

As far as Underground Atlanta goes, I think my father summed it up pretty well last time we went: "I feel like I'm walking into a Mexico City subway station!" Along with the central Five Points area as a whole, this is not the most appealing part of Atlanta for tourists. Near eastern end of Underground Atlanta is the State Capitol, built right after the Civil War.

One very underrated downtown attraction is the restaurant on top of the downtown Westin, once the tallest hotel on Earth, which I would recommend mainly for its bar. When downtown was in its prime, this place was tough to get into, and walking in off the street was of considerable difficulty. Nowadays, however, one can walk in and get wisked up 73 stories no-questions-asked as long as a minimum $8 is spent on drinks (enough for a couple beers). The views are great, and one can get a close-up view of the other big skyscrapers downtown and the multitude of skyscrapers--finished and under construction--that trail off to the north.

Outside of Atlanta, the main attraction in Stone Mountain, a giant granite dome out in the eastern suburbs. They have really made quite a park out of it, with all sorts of non-mountain-related crap, which I wouldn't suggest devoting too terribly much time to. The best thing to do is climb the mountain via the trail on its western side.

RESTAURANTS

Atlanta is chock-full of nice places to eat, most of which are in Midtown or, more often, Buckhead. Bluepointe, One Midtown Kitchen, and Pricci stand out as some of the best of these new chic restaurants. Some of the more local (and relaxed) places include the Carroll Street Cafe in Cabbagetown or Apre Diem at 10th and Monroe.

But no trip to Atlanta is complete without a trip to the Varsity, the world-famous fast food restaurant. Be sure to have your order ready when asked "What'll ya have!?" and don't respond with any questions: the menu is self-explanitory in the eyes of the impatient cashiers.

If you make it out of the city, the Waffle House is a great cultural experiece from the South, and can be found at many freeway interchanges.

If you want southern-style BBQ, head to the Barbecue Kitchen on Virginia Avenue in College Park, which is just west of I-85 near the airport.

BARS & CLUBS

Atlanta's nightclub scene is as fragmented as everything else in the city, but there are a few major centers to nightlife:

1) Buckhead is the epicenter of Atlanta's clubs. This is focused around Buckhead Village, which is about a mile south of the business and shopping center of Buckhead. Take Peachtree Street north until you reach a major fork in the road at Pharr Rd. You can't miss it.

2) Virginia Highlands, east of Atlanta, is a more local and relaxed alternative. This area mainly consists of bars.

3) Underground Atlanta is the only place bars can stay open until 4am, thanks to an initiative deisnged to shut down the Buckhead club scene and redevelop Underground. I would take considerable care before stumbling out into the surrounding streets at 4am, however.

4) Midtown is home to numerous clubs, but take notice that this is the gay center of Atlanta. Plan your visit accordingly.

HOTELS

I don't know much about hotels in this city, but there are ample lodgings throughout the major growth axis to the north of downtown. Some famous downtown hotels include the aforementioned Westin downtown or the Marriot Marquis. A more creative and interesting option, however, might be to stay in a bed and breakfest converted from a historical Victorian mansion in Inman Park.