[Troll_Inc]

6 Max vs Full handed.
I was playing loose passi ve 6 max only, but I do believe the same holds true for 9 max since it seems about the same number of people see each flop. Full handed you might need a little bit better hands to proceed though.

PREFLOP TIGHTNESS
I agree with you about preflop tightness 30% would work, and I've done that before. The reason why I tightened up is that:
1. I am playing 4-6 tables at a time.
2. Playing more hands increases variance (for me), and often I start at 30 and drift to 40-50 especially if I have a mark in my site. So if I start at 20 then often I might move to 30. And I find that when I start playing 20-30% type of hands with danglers and low pairs, I start to get myself in trouble - it also leads to harder decisions, i.e. does this donkey really have top set this time? So in summary, I agree you can play at 30% and win, it just makes it more difficult and I have no information that it increases my winrate.

STRAIGHTS
I think I said not to play A854s. I would probably play A765s, but not 7652s. I really want to have 3 cards at top of 678, if you do this you are only giving up 3 nut straights (A-5, 2-6, 3-7). Again, this is probably a finer point, you are right you could make money wtih 765, but by not playing it how much money are you leaving on the table?

Also, I don't think I included to not push any flopped straights that have 2 flushes in them. In early position this is a check-call for me, and in position, I would call a raise before me or bet out if it is checked to me.

BUYIN
Buyin for the maximum is fine, but I see advantages to buying in for $10-15.
1. This allows you to let a LAG double you up. And then this might tilt him to get his money back, and he can double you again. Often they don't play well vs smaller stacks, they bet at some pot when you just flopped top set - and it "isn't that much more" for them to see if you have it or chase their flush draw. Often you can triple up in these situations.
2. Allows for easier decisions when you have less information on players.
3. Allows you to occasionally use Rolf's strategy if you have one player raising a bit.
4. If you start with $10 and double up in one hour, that's 20bb/hr, and >20 bb/100 which is enough.

But I think this is also a finer point and probably doesn't matter much one way or the other. Perhaps opponents will play more poorly when you are a medium stack or perhaps you will have fewer opps as a large stack but will score more.

SEMI-BLUFFING
Afer I posted, I was thinking "what did I leave off". I totally agree with you, if a pot is checked to you and you have a good draw bet it if you have fold equity. If you have less fold equity or you have checkraisers or you just have a flush draw, I think I just check behind or maybe a small bet (small bets are very frequent at this level so it won't look suspicious.)

SMALL BET MISTAKE
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6) The size of your opponents bets usually indicate exactly how strong their hand is.

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100% true. Many opponents at this level underbet made (but vulnerable hands, like straights) and let you know exactly how good their hand is. It's ridiculous, but often minimum bet = pair or overpair, a little bit more means TTP or flush draw, etc.
To wit, I will not go after marginal situations, like going after JUST a flush draw when they bet half pot, but as you point out villains way underbet pot (like $1 into $5 pot when they are OOP) and you have a good nut draw or two. I have been taking the really good sales, and passing on those with just small marginal value.

Alternatively, every single time I have the nuts in position or out, I bet full value every single time. Unless it's something like a raised pot preflop, and 5 people see a flop and you are in SB, and you are 90% certain someone will bet behind you. Other than that level of certain, just bet away because this game is about them making mistakes and you want to make sure that when you are holding the nuts, their mistake is as large as possible.