HUSNG Theory: Aggression
 

This for $22 and below.

In these levels I run into a problem I havent been able to solve. I know aggression is advocated on the forum and it made sense to me so I play pretty aggressively. However I find that I am getting called a lot and when I play turbos this tendency of my opponents eats away at my stack because most of the time I don't have anything. Lets I decide to be more patient I find that my stack gets eaten away the same only at a slower pace and if I do raise villain stops calling me down with bottom pair all of a sudden.
I am having a hard time playing a game with balanced aggression.
Did anybody else have this problem? And how did you overcome it?

Re: HUSNG Theory: Aggression
 

Most players $22 and below are half-sentient monkeys who mash the CALL button relentlessly regardless of their cards. These loose/passive players are goldmines. If you notice you have a button mashing monkey, then be happy - because you are going to value bet the crap out of them and watch them call call call you to victory. Against this villain, you can value bet thinner and they will pay you off with all sorts of hands.

I would refrain from being overly aggressive against a villain who will call you too often. Aggression is great against someone who is capable of folding but against someone who can't, you should consider cbetting/bluffing less and value betting more.

This kind of player will make you want to break your monitor on occasion when they suck out on you by catching their miracle card on the river but for all the other times when they don't make their draws, you'll wind up ahead.

Re: HUSNG Theory: Aggression
 

The main problem is that you are betting to large. You should be shoving when you have a +ev hand or draw, not on a bluff.

To continue this discussion, my AF street by street is 4.13/2.32/1.67

Re: HUSNG Theory: Aggression
 

I had problems against this player for a while at the lower limits and I just started playing straight forward. Within the first couple of hands I didn't c-bet without at least a decent gut shot. I would then check down if I didn't improve to something decent. I left a lot of value on the table early on, but it got me to a lot of showdowns and it made it a lot easier to read my opponent later on. You can't bluff (even a c-bet) when there's no fold equity.

Re: HUSNG Theory: Aggression
 

Yea you have to play a little more transparent and straight forward in the lower games (against most opponents).

I would review my PF raising range, bet sizing (pre and post flop) and aggression factor OOP and see if you might be leaking some chips in those areas. Generally if you're playing overaggressive AND it's a bad thing, it should show up in those areas at these limits.

Re: HUSNG Theory: Aggression
 

[ QUOTE ]
The main problem is that you are betting to large. You should be shoving when you have a +ev hand or draw, not on a bluff.

To continue this discussion, my AF street by street is 4.13/2.32/1.67

[/ QUOTE ]

Those numbers are very close to mine at the 6's and it was very successful. My river was a bit lower. I just move to the 11's, but I'm going to stay with this until I reach a level where I need to adjust.

Re: HUSNG Theory: Aggression
 

I personally have had this happen to me numerous times, and I was so caught up in playing "solid poker" that I would keep on doing what the "books / pros" say you should do, which is be AGGRESSIVE.

Honestly, I have found with trial and error, aggression gets you so far, if you find that your opponent does not back down with Ace high, or even a bottom pair, you are not going to win the battle by being aggressive.

Here you will have to just adjust to your opponent, slow the pace of the game, and make a lot of small bets and a lot of value bets.

You will have to risk getting outdrawn on, thus you should try to keep the pot small, but on the river if you notice he has missed his straight draw or flush draw, then go ahead and overbet. These calling stations always have the mentality of "he is full of it", and they will most likely call. Lets say they fold, and then you start telling yourself "I am such an idiot, why would I shove there, I could have value bet and taken a nice chunk", this is true but now you have such a powerful tool under your belt, he is now shaken and will most likely be doubting his fold, so the next few times you overbet on the river (with the best hand), he might crack and call. Or it just really makes him lose focus and he'll start making stupid raises, and he now is your pet.

In conclusion, don't shy away from playing small ball poker, if your opponent is the type who will allow pots to be checked around, and limped in; this is good news for you. If you are a good reader of hands and situations, you will crush these opponents 7/10. Remember though, everyone wins, so this type of player beats you, do not let it tilt you, it really annoys and you have all the right in the world to be upset, just take it as a normal loss and move on.

I wish POKERSTARS had a "REMATCH" button after the HU SNG ended. Dont you all?

-- MxGucci

Re: HUSNG Theory: Aggression
 

Mx: Do you usually play big ball or small ball. I usually play small ball, except against these opponents, I will play big ball, especially on the flop.

Re: HUSNG Theory: Aggression
 

I don't really get how your opponent would be questioning his fold if he folded a busted draw...?

Re: HUSNG Theory: Aggression
 

The good old rule that all poker books tell you applies:

- Play aggressive against tight players
- Play tight against aggressive players

Although this is more of a strategy for full tables, but I think it really works at HU sng's as well, especially when blinds are low.

I always try to play a mental game with my opponent, if I notice he is aggressive, I will slow down the game by stalling a lot, firing out min bets (with no hand / with a monster hand), this usually frusturates them. They sometimes will re-raise you on the mere fact that they think you are "weak". If lets say you had "no hand", you insta-fold, and he gets the feeling he can do that move everytime you min raise. And when you do have that "monster hand", depending on the board, I will either cold-call him or just re-raise him.

This really works against aggressive opponents, you just have to adjust your playing style based on each opponent. Realize what might tick them off, and exploit it. There is no "rule book" of plays which you must follow 100% of the time, obviously there are strategies which are profitable, but if both opponents are using the same strategies, would that be profitable?

Implement your own game and feel, play your opponent more then your cards.

Dave: I play mainly small ball against calling stations