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#231
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[ QUOTE ]
Someone should write up how to use this thing as a Poobah post. This thing is crazy and I am not even sure I totally understand it but I like it. [/ QUOTE ] seconded |
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#232
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Party poker:
![]() Stars: Party all-in before river: Stars all-in before river: ![]() I play the same on Party as I do on Stars, which is about 22/18/4, all at 6 max NL. Why are the graphs so different? |
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#233
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lyric, your graphs actually aren't that much different in terms of what they demonstrate about your play. what they tell me (to learn more you'd need to look at other filters):
i) you're running bad when you get all-in on stars (even if u correct for stuff you're still prob running bad); ii) you're probably not beating either game for more than 1.5-2bb because you aren't winning enough in shown down pots to compensate for what you're losing in pots that don't go to showdown. you're either paying off too much when you're outdrawn or behind, not extracting enough value when you're ahead, or you're simply getting destroyed when neither of you has anything (this one prob matters most given your graphs). it could be (and likely is) some complicated relationship between all three. it could also be that your opponents are just running very well against you for an extended period of time. it could be other things. you'd need to look at a bunch of other filters to start eliminating hypotheses and even then it'd be imperfect process. your graphs also tell us that people on party show down worse hands relative to your hand ranges, so they probably read hands worse and play worse overall (but that isn't necessarily true, either!). stars looks like a much more aggressive and tenacious (but not in a mindless, call-stationy way) than party. shrug. the program does have it uses, namely helping people imitate successful styles. if phil adds some more specific board texture filters it'd be even better. |
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#234
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Lyric,
it looks like you're getting hardcore doomswitched at Stars. Given that all in before river is far less affected by possible showdown skew, and you're not a heavy bluffer, the results should be quite accurate. You're getting in with the best of it and getting screwed. Have you noticed losing a lot of all in pots to suckouts? Vanveen, what do you want to see? Currently I've got 3-flush, 2-flush, rainbow No straights, Weak straight, straight, straight heavy Paired, unpaired. Do you want filters for specific board cards or card ranges? Such as broadway cards, an ace, etc? Let me know, this stuff takes half an hour to do. PM or post in software or the forums. |
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#235
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phil,
in terms of interpreting the bar charts: ![]() How would you interpret a chart like this? This is limit headsup. my initial interpretation is that I'm not getting enough value out of the turn and especially the river. But does this graph account for checkraises? It doesn't really count checking to induce bluffs either right? Should I interpret this as I am doing to much c/calling on later streets and need to bet my hands for value more? |
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#236
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Interesting tool. I still am not sure how it makes you a better poker player but I need to understand it 1st I guess [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
My line graph lines go 1. Blue, 2 Green, 3 red. 4teal. What does this mean? On my bar graphs the red column is higher on every street (I selected cumulative) but on my graph my red line is significantly below my green and blue lines. That doesn't make sense to me. Also my blue line is higher than my green. This doesn't seem right for a short stacker? Does it mean I am trying to steal then getting pozzed more often then I get the blinds? |
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#237
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Gildwulf:
This chart represents the total amount you bet per street (blue), and the equity that money had when it went in . Example: You cap AA pre vs KK for $40 each. $80 in pot, you have 80% equity= $64 equity, and you bet $40. Postflop would be similar. Since you are HU it makes sense your preflop equities are basically 0. On the flop you have about +2K equity, and about +$4k on the turn, and maybe 6k ish on the river. So, compared to the river, it looks like you are getting less value on the turn. This might be because your opponent usually has some equity on the turn, so hes rarely drawing dead. Yes, the chart accounts checkraises. Is your +equity about 10kish? It should be the total of the red bars - the blue bars, just go to statistics tab to check it. |
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#238
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The blue on the bar chart is the the amount you put in on that street (bets, raises and calls). The red is your expected earn from the money that went in on that street.
Example: You bet $10, 2 callers. You have 50% equity. The blue bar will be $10, the red bar will be $15, your NetSB value will be $5. (rake, sidepots, etc are accounted for) The bars give an idea for how much money goes in on each street with an equity edge. Use with the filters to find multi-street leaks. Lower red bars over multiple streets indicate you're generally putting money in with the worst of it. For example, you might always have odds to draw to a flush, but over multiple streets you have a consistently lower red bar. This could indicate a leak, such as situations where you're drawing but not getting paid off sufficiently when you hit. You could investigate this by filtering for "flush draw on flop" and "flush on river". |
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#239
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In terms of the blue and red bar chart. It is preferrable to have a bigger red bar, but if the difference is too big im assuming you are missing value? If that is the case then what is the right ratio to have?
Oh this tool has been awesome for my NL game ive realised i need to be much more agressive post flop and have already starting implementing changes to get my greenline closer to and above my blue/red line. Although im not sure of its use for FL i guess the blue/red bar chart is the most usefull. |
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#240
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![]() i used to run good but now i run bad [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] Also, I'm not very good |
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