Basic Sit 'n Go Questions Answered Here

[Collin Moshman]

Hitch, if you can't use stats overlay, then I'd pay most careful attention to pot-entering frequency, followed by aggression/passivity at high blinds. How often is a particular opponent limping during high blinds? Does he seem to shove just about any two cards when it's folded to him in late position? These are the types of things you want to be looking for.

McGrain, using commercial software like SNGWizard and seeing what you are correct to call/shove with for different stack sizes and opponent pushing/folding ranges is your best bet long-term. Cliff's Notes: shove your strong hands (aces, kings, pocket pairs, two face cards), fold your weak hands unless you are very short-stacked -- say 5 BB or fewer, in which case tend to push just about any two cards, and if your opponent just calls from the button, raise all-in often to win a 2BB pot uncontested.

youbobAA and PokerClif, you guys are completely right about the rake. Beating 20% is really really tough, even if your competition is very poor. I'd probably play the $5+$0.5 underfunded ($100+) rather than multi-table $1+$0.2's.

-- Collin

[WaywardAce]

Is the skill level needed to beat the $5+.50 significantly higher than that needed to beat the $1+.20?

[JereLock]

is there a rake in sng tourneys? or is that what the 3.00+.x is for?

[Poker Clif]

[ QUOTE ]
is there a rake in sng tourneys? or is that what the 3.00+.x is for?

[/ QUOTE ]

For a PokerStars SNG, $1+.20 =

$1 for the prize pool + .20 to Pokerstars = $1.20 to play in the SNG.

So yes, what PokerStars calls a 20 cent "entry fee" is the equivalent of a 20% rake.

Also, PokerStars does not have a rakeback in the usual sense. FPP (Frequent Player Points) are based on amount of rake paid. Those points can be used to buy anything from PokerStars gear, to poker books, to tournament or satellite entries.

I don't know how to compare what you can get from the PokerStars FPP store to cash rakeback at other sites, but if I got a PS T-shirt playing $1 sit-n-goes, it's fair to assume that playing the bigger games would mean you could get an awful lot of stuff, some of which can be quite useful. We all buy poker books, after all.

[TheNextLevel]

Collin, let me say first that I bought your book and I think it is a great read and I feel I have improved already. My question though is not strategy related as it is more one of practical advice.

I normally play cash games (I am a student, so I try to make about $200 or so a day to cover expenses), but the swings can be huge so I decided to study sit n gos as I have read that variance is a little more stable. My question is do you think with expert play would it be possible to have a more consistent income from sit n gos rather than cash games? For example, is it unrealistic for me to think that I can play X amount of sit n gos and at the end of the day earn X money more or less? Thanks again for your thoughts.

[Acein8ter]

How often should someone steel the blinds when in the middle game to ~3 players? (Given that our stack size is average) Should we constantly be applying pressure on the blinds when folded to on the button?

Would you attempt a steel from the CO position?

How often do you attempt a re-steel from the BB? Only when the button is over active?

TIA

[basementproject]

[ QUOTE ]
Is the skill level needed to beat the $5+.50 significantly higher than that needed to beat the $1+.20?

[/ QUOTE ]

I play the 5's, and I can tell you right now, NO!

The 1s can be a bitch because of variance. Players down there literally have no clue, and will give you a hard time because of it.

At 5, generally people are aware of BASIC strategy, aka 'dont limp with K6o UTG', and you can take advantage of it easily.

5s are not tough at all.

Just make sure you're rolled for them, as with any level.

[suitsme]

I have a more general question about SnG's. I normally play cash games but this question came to me when I played a live SnG with some friends (lets say equally good-bad players).

We're in the first blind -level and everybody has aproximately 100BBs. To make a long story short the SB does a slightly +EV push on the flop for lets say 90BB.
Gets called, looses the hand and is out of the game.

My question: Is a +EV action in a SnG always a good move? Which other things should we take in consideration also?

[QuadDamage]

I originally started at the $1+0.20 just because it was the lowest buy-in. I'd recommend getting away from these as soon as possible if you are in any way serious about playing. The 20% rake is a real killer and even if you're beating it, what are you making, $3 a session?

In addition, the game you must play to beat $1 is probably bad for your long-term development. It's often said that you should play aggressively. One key benefit of being aggressive is that you might get your opponent to fold a better hand--something that isn't going to happen too often with the calling stations at a $1 table. I've found that I've often done better playing weak-tight at $1, something you do not want to do at higher buy-ins.

There are many players at $5 that are very exploitable, but for the most part you will find a game resembling poker, not bingo. In other words, a player at $5 might call your raise with QJ, while you'll find people calling your raises with J4s at $1.

To reiterate, unless you are just playing for sheer entertainment or only have $20 left in your account, move to $5.

[youbobAA]

I played the $5.50 games with only $20 for the same reason as you. Getting your aces cracked by J8 oop after you've raised is a mouse-busting experience. I might play the $15+1 since I've gotten over $40 now but there is really no room for error there. Maybe I will get to $64 first with the $5.50 games so I have 4 buyins to cash. Good luck.