Re: benchmark dishes
Why bother with the easy stuff? Start with the things that really test if you want to come back.
Thai - I think Pad Thai is only useful as a benchmark if you suspect the restaurant isn't using tamarind. I would order something a green curry where you can really tell if they're using good ingredients and taking care.
Italian - Osso Bucco (braised veal shanks). It is not complicated at all but will let me know if the chef understands seasonings or uses them to hide other sins. It should be ridiculously tender and meaty and full of marrow-y goodness. When served with a risotto, I'll have a very good idea if it's worth coming back.
Pub - fish and chips. Sounds easy, most places screw up the batter or the chips, use meh fish, or serve it with a few pathetic lettuce leaves, a quarter tomato and a slice of cucumber (either give me a real salad or nothing).
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