Re: benchmark dishes
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Ed,
Gnocchi is my favourite Italian dish, but it is too easy to mess up to keep in line with the OP's intentions.
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I think that's the point, no? If they get that right they're golden? Am I misunderstanding the OP?
And I agree with you, gnocchi is the best. Unfortunately I didn't discover it until I moved from Boston (and subsequently, the delicious north end). Sodini's in North Beach, SF has really awesome gnocchi if you get the chance.
As for what I order first when trying an Italian place, it's usually eggplant parmigiana.
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