[Mik1w]

[ QUOTE ]
I think there is a big problem here. Hands like suited connectors are much more trap hands in a limped family pot in NL. In limit this is no problem, because if you make a really good second best hand (like the bottom of a straight or trips no kicker or something) you're losses will be capped. In no limit, it is a much better hand to play short-handed in a raised pot, because when you hit your hand 1)you will be pretty sure it is good) 2)you actually have implied odds because someone else more likely has a big hand.

The better way to play these type of hands on the button is to raise with them. If the whole table will call your raise, then I guess you can just call, but be careful about hands like bottom 2 pair or the like (ie Doyle's don't go broke in a limped pot). Also, this is no-limit not limit. An extra 8BBs in the pot is almost meaningless, as this makes the pot the size of a raised pot with one caller.

IMO, this doesn't hurt you a huge amount, but it certainly doesn't help. If you want a bigger pot, play at the next limit up.

[/ QUOTE ]

With the limit up, Im playing a bigger pot every hand. This strategy increases the pot only when it is in my interests.

I didn't realise suited connectors were trap hands. Either they make a big hand and win a big pot, or miss and lose a small one. It's not like you'll be comparing kickers often or drawing dead...

If everyone agrees on the fact that, by min raising, I am increasing a pot size before the flop WITHOUT improving my opponents' hand ranges, why does this not give me an advantage post flop? It's basically putting money in with the edge, and position, and as a bonus not worrying if only better hands call - your raising range beats their limping one; under these circumstances, the min-raise increases your pot equity.

sorry, read more replies later