Six Max Baby Steps
 

For my 1000th post, I figured I should post something a little more substantial than "fold preflop," or "stick it in her pooper." I'll leave it up to you guys to decide if this is actually worth reading, but it's at least longer.

I've been thinking quite a bit about 6 max play lately. Mostly this is because I've been playing it that much. I found Absolute's 6 max games are much softer than it's full ring play, and I can never seem to run out of bonus there. I also found myself helping another 2+2er make his first foray into 6 max play, and every other day or so we seem to get a post here about people feeling lost at 1/2 6 max. While I'm a perpetual student of 6 max, and poker in general, I have managed to learn a few things and compile a pretty good deal of information from the forums here, specifically about taking those first few baby steps.

About a month ago, someone posted a poll in both HUSH and small stakes (sorry, lost the link) asking if people thought learning full ring or short handed play was more difficult. The overwhelming response from both forums was, to the surprise of virtually no one, that people thought learning 6 max play was more difficult. One poster chimed in, though, with a comment that rang very true: every full ring player encounters situations resembling 6 max play every single time they play, but a 6 max player will never see many situations from full ring. A similar thesis was also discussed by Ed Miller in his April 2005 article on preflop play in short handed situations. He argued that the commonly stated idea, "In shorthanded games you pay the blinds more often, so you have to play more hands to compensate," was incorrect. Instead, he stated, "Playing in a shorthanded game is theoretically no different from playing in a full game where some players have folded. Being under the gun in a four-handed game is the same situation as being one off the button in a ten-handed game where everyone has folded to you."

When people talk about short-handed situations, they are frequently talking in the same breath about all the adjustments you need to make: how you need to be more aggressive, how you need to defend your blinds, how you need to find value in marginal hands, how A high has showdown value, how you should never open-limp, how all these maniacs will 3-bet with anything, etc. All these things are true, for the most part, but there are two major undertones here that are incorrect: one, that 6 max play is significantly different from full ring play, and two, that these are things you shouldn't be doing in full ring play.

Those two thoughts, I believe, are the two biggest issues that people have when they start out in 6 max play, myself included. Short-handed play gets filed in their heads as a completely different game, and people walk into it looking to make radical adjustments in their play. Sensible, winning 2+2ers will do things like try to steal against loose blinds with J2o, call down with Q high, defend their big blind from a tight player with 93s, and 3-bet a turn check/raise from a passive player after a scare card drops when holding second pair. Most 2+2ers wouldn't dream of doing these things in a full ring game, and yet it happens all the time when you put a good player at his first 6 max table.

Six max play is still poker. Repeat that. Six max play is still poker - the same game we know and love, and know how to beat. Pot odds still apply. Bottom pair is is not the nuts. Turn check/raises on paired boards from passive players still tend to mean sad things for AA. Sets can still get cracked. Sometimes, yes, the other guy does have the flush. Never forget the things you learned from SSH and from the thousands of hands of full ring you've played up to this point. The same fundamentals still apply. Any experienced 2+2er should be able to sit down at a 6 max table and make NO adjustments from their full ring play and still be successful. All he or she needs to do is play every hand as if it was folded to MP2.

That's the real trick, though, and that's the reason why people talk about all the adjustments you need to make. People are making adjustments to 6 max play because they are lacking in important concepts from full ring play. That is also why most veterans say playing 1/2 6 max is crucial before moving up to 2/4 and beyond. If you're lacking in one of the "adjustments" you need to make, you are an incomplete poker player, even strictly in terms of full ring play.

Therein lies the beauty of 6 max play. It brings to the fore concepts that you can ignore in full ring play and still be a winning player. For example, in full ring play, you check a garbage hand in the BB after the CO open-limps, the button limps, and the SB folds. On the flop, you hit second pair on a ragged flop. The natural inclination of many full ring players is to just check/fold and not give the hand a second thought. You don't have to when playing full ring. You'll get paid off well enough when you make it to the river holding the nut flush and the pot is still five handed to make up for the very slim EV in the previous hand. When you're playing short-handed, however, there is no way you can possibly get paid off as well as full ring when you hit something good. Therefore, you had better start finding value elsewhere, or else those blinds are going to eat you alive.

Many more concepts come out to play like this. Preflop strategy changes because open limping is a no-no, just like it is for later positions in full ring (check out Ollie's hand in the second thread, too - not only his good play, but his last sentence). Reads, real reads, become more important, because you'll find yourself heads-up with the same people more often. Hand reading becomes more important because you have to know when your bottom pair has some value. Unimproved overcard and underpair (and more underpair) play become more important because you'd better be extracting some value here as well. It's a big part of your win rate. When you find yourself playing in the blinds 66% more often, you'd darn well better find a good way to minimize your losses, given that everyone loses money from the blinds. The thing is, these situations come up in full ring as well, but people are too used to taking the easy route and folding. As NPA said in one of the articles I linked above, "...you guys are hesitant to play marginal hands in spots that are profitable but uncomfortable. Yes, you aren't thrilled that you have unimproved ace-king in a big pot, but that's what you got, and you have to make the best play with it. It seems that some of you don't want to make the correct play because it MIGHT (note caps) leave you with a "tough" river decision." Playing 6 max forces you to make the tough decisions and play correctly in the uncomfortable spots that you may have been avoiding because of how much of your winnings comes from the sum of all the marginal situations you encounter. The best part, though, is that the ability to play in these marginal situations in 6 max play will do nothing but improve your full ring play as well. Just remember, though, that there's still a difference between a marginal hand and a truly awful one.

I guess as long as I'm citing everything under the sun, here are a couple more good threads with links to other good threads.

Once I finally realized that I was playing the same game at a 6 max table as I was and should have been at a full ring table, it was pretty easy to tell that I had become a better poker player. I was going to play my same good, solid poker game no matter how many people were sitting at the table. I knew I had gone from toddling and falling on my ass to being able to take a few good steps. Next up: jogging, running, strutting, and dancing.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Nice post! Congrats on 1000, and thanks for the collection of links.

I had the same problems when I first started playing 6-max (I need to raise with every Ax!, etc). In fact, I may have done everything you mentioned in that paragraph at some point in my first several sessions. I've learned to slow down, but I'm still working at it. It's been pretty rewarding (and fun) so far.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Beautiful post. Straight to the favourites.

I'll probally start 1/2 6-max fairly soon. I'm going to get up to 450BB before i start (because i'm a wuss) I find 6-max to be alot of fun. Being agressive is fun, playing the opponents is fun. Agreed that it is still poker, but passive play has no calling in 6-max, it's either bet or bust. All 6-max players should also be constantly reading HUSH. It's a great fourm with lots of advice. Anyhow, good post and good luck

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
I also found myself helping another 2+2er make his first foray into 6 max play

[/ QUOTE ]

Sweet I got mentioned!!


[ QUOTE ]
Sensible, winning 2+2ers will do things like try to steal against loose blinds with J2o, call down with Q high, defend their big blind from a tight player with 93s, and 3-bet a turn check/raise from a passive player after a scare card drops when holding second pair.

[/ QUOTE ]

You said you wouldn't tell. At least you didn't mention the 75o, or the folded straight on the river. [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]


[ QUOTE ]
Six max play is still poker. Repeat that. Six max play is still poker

[/ QUOTE ]

This is probably the single most important advice you gave me. I came to realize that some of the reason that 6-max is more profitable than full, besides the more playable hands and hands per hour, is that the fish play looser at 6-max.(yep, it's possible.) If, however, you fail to grasp this concept, your virtually negating that positive aspect of 6-max play. Toss in the added bonus of being able to make bone-headed loose plays at an excelerated Hands/hr., and you start hemoraghing money.

[ QUOTE ]
Once I finally realized that I was playing the same game at a 6 max table as I was and should have been at a full ring table, it was pretty easy to tell that I had become a better poker player.

[/ QUOTE ]

Your on to something here. I'd be willing to wager this is where everyone's problem with their 1/2 transitions is.(mine included) Yes, I'll give you that there are more weak-tighty bonuswhoring rocks at that limit. But take a second to figure out what that means. Does it mean that most of your hands will be short-handed? DING!! Does it mean that you'll be in positions where you may need to defend your blinds more often from possible steal raises? DING!! Does it mean that you'll find yourself in HU situations more, Often with marginal holdings? DING DING!!

My testimonial: With MrWookie's help, and a little bit of studying on my part, I went from hemoraghing money at 6-max(we're talking over 100 BBs in one 4 hr session) to at this moment in the black and on the verge of clearing Absolute's initial sign up bonus. This in the span of about a week. It's not that hard, Don't be scar'd.

I'd like to add a little recommended reading of my own, if I may: First off, re-read the river section of SSH, the part about Value betting on the river especially, this comes up TONS. The Short Handed section of HEFAP, as well as the couple of HU sections in there as well. Finally, the Short Handed section of Inside the Poker mind is excellent(I just got it today, partially for this section.)

MrWookie thanks for your help, and thank you for a wonderful post. See you at Absolute.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Wow, amazing post Wookie. This is the first post that I have put immediately into my favorites. Thanks for all the tips and the links. Awesome.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

I very much disagree with you when you say that passive play has no place in 6 max. Passive play is correct in exactly the same places as it is in full ring. That is one of my main arguments. Too many 2+2ers blindly ratchet up their aggression in situations where it'd be considered lunacy in full ring, but they justify it, saying "You have to be more aggressive in 6 max!!" If you open-raise A9o in the CO and the button 3-bets you, the standard WA/WB line is typically correct when you spike an A on the flop for exactly the same reasons as it is for full ring. You still don't want KK to fold, and you still might be behind AK. Play the poker you know how to play.

And Nfinity, the mistakes I cited above were deliberatly changed to protect the guilty, but if you want to own up to them, that's your perogative. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Okay, small difference of semantics i think.
Calling is good. But being PASSIVE, is not good. Though I am a 6-max newb, finding the medium between passive and agressive is necessary.
Many full ring players (me included) will see a small pocket pair and limp it generally without thinking too much. Generally you aren't making a huge mistake if you limp a small pp in a full ring game. But if you just limp in 6-max, your error is compounded, because of the agressive nature and short handed nature of the game.

Oh and this:
[ QUOTE ]
If you open-raise A9o in the CO and the button 3-bets you, the standard WA/WB line is typically correct when you spike an A on the flop for exactly the same reasons as it is for full ring. You still don't want KK to fold, and you still might be behind AK. Play the poker you know how to play.

[/ QUOTE ]
I totally agree with.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
And Nfinity, the mistakes I cited above were deliberatly changed to protect the guilty, but if you want to own up to them, that's your perogative.

[/ QUOTE ]

I kinda thought you might have made most of those up. Did I really do those things?

WOW.

Edit: I don't mind bustin' myself out if it gets people to think you might know what your talking about, cuz you do.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

I disagree with you there, too. If you're on the button with 22, and there are two limpers to you in a 6 max game, limping yourself is AOK, just like full ring. Limping 22 UTG in a full ring game is +EV because you are typically guaranteed an appropriate number of callers. However, if it's folded to you in MP2, open-limping 22 is no longer a good plan. You're less likely to get a good number of limpers along with you.

You are correct, however, in that your average aggression stats will go up relative to your full ring play. You get to be more aggressive in marginal situations because they are more likely to be profitable when there are already fewer people. Don't forget, though, that if you find yourself against few opponents in a full ring game again with a marginal holding, you should be considering the same things about the value of your hand as you would in a 6 max game.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Okay, same thoughts different wavelengths. I understand where you must have misunderstood me. I type my posts out too quickly sometimes.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
But being PASSIVE, is not good.

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Just to nitpick a little, the key here is selective aggression. In the right spots aggression will win pots regardless of cards. But when things become heads up after the flop (which is extremely common in 6-max) often it is best to let your opponent keep betting while you casually call down and raise the turn or river. This is particularly true where a flop raise would knock out an opponent with a worse hand but keep one around with a better hand or when you are up against a player who will bluff consistantly.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
All 6-max players should also be constantly reading HUSH. It's a great fourm with lots of advice.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm sorry, but I'm going to keep picking on you and find one more thing to disagree with. This one is pretty minor, though. I certainly hope you don't think I'm coming across as mean. I'll say instead that all 2+2ers should be reading HUSH constantly. It's a great forum with lots of advice on lots of marginal situations you see every day, no matter how many people are sitting at the table with you.

I'm glad you're taking the plunge into 6 max play. Best of luck to you, unless you're at my table [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img].

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
later positions in full ring (check out Ollie's hand in the second thread, too - not only his good play, but his last sentence).

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Without question he played the hand correctly, but I don't know if I agree with the last sentence, and frankly it sounds results-oriented (Ollie can chime in if I'm wrong). Playing hands like that in position against passive, predictable players lets you get good value when you're ahead and get away easily when you're behind.

Didn't mean to nitpick - nice post.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Ah. I highlighted his last sentence not as something I agree with, but as a common statement that is exactly opposite to everything I wrote in this thread. He made a beautiful play, but he was hesitant about it because of a combination of being results oriented and hesitant in marginal situations.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Great post Wookie! once i get the bankroll, i should venture into 6-max because i can't seem to get the "value bet the river" concept to sink in and i'm aggressive as a wet noodle [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Great post by the way!

I think I went through pretty much every stage you mentioned (raising A2o in any position, calling raises with bad cards, etc). It is truly amazing how much playing these games will impact your overall game. I've played about 6k hands so far and I would say without a doubt it has improved my hand reading, reading opponents, position play, heads up play and how to play short handed pots. Also when the full ring games start to get shorthanded you will almost always clean up - your opponents are often clueless as to what changes to make. You will learn how to stop playing your cards for what they are and to start playing against your opponents. And your full ring game will benefit as well. A few tips if you are just starting out:

1.) Take note of the kind of game you are in. 6-max games vary greatly from one to the next. In some everyone limps and you can limp along with many hands you'd otherwise fold (these become very much like full ring). In some you can steal the blinds every time you are on the button or CO. It is far more important than it is in full ring to figure out what kinds of players you are against. When I first started I played every hand the same and was trying to bluff out calling stations with ace high. They'd show their bottom pair and drag pot after pot.

2.) Along the same lines, I would recommend reducing the number of tables you are playing. I started off trying to play 3 at a time and this was too much for me. 2 is about right because I feel I can get good reads on all 10 (max) of my opponents.

3.) Try not to limp unless someone limps in front of you (the exception being hands like pocket pairs in a passive game). You are basically announcing that you have a weak hand. Raising can often buy you the pot (either right then or with a flop bet when everyone misses). Also when a weak player limps in front of you raising will often get it heads up and giving you position.

4.) Don't play too tight. If you try to play exactly the same as you play in a ring game you will be a marginal winner at best (unless you are a loose ring game player!). Hands like JTs are strong in 6-max.

5.) Throw away the low suited connectors unless it's going to be an unraised family pot (obviously it's ok in the blinds if you're getting good odds). Heads up you are already starting with a pretty big disadvantage (best advice I heard of was from one of sthief09's articles - think of 76 suited as 7 high and see how much you like it!).

6.) Pairs and aces go up in value. AK is often good enough to see the river unimproved (since if your opponent doesn't pair you win).

7.) As was already mentioned, don't get crazy aggressive. J4o is still junk, A2o is typically not worth raising unless you are opening from the button. VP$IP is usually around 20-30%.

8.) When only 2 of you see the flop don't always assume you are way behind if you miss. There's a good chance your opponent missed as well.

9.) If there are fewer than 6 players, pretend the first couple have folded.

A few more articles:

Jason Pohl is frequently mentioned in the heads up/shorthanded forum and his articles are here:
http://www.pokerpages.com/articles/a...index.htm#pohl

And some good shorthanded (and full ring) 2+2 archive articles listed here:
http://www.poker.favos.nl/

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

That's definitely good advice about playing fewer tables. I thought about including that, but in the interest of focus, I left it out.

Edit: And the second link is another good collection that I wish I had included.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
later positions in full ring (check out Ollie's hand in the second thread, too - not only his good play, but his last sentence).

[/ QUOTE ]

Without question he played the hand correctly, but I don't know if I agree with the last sentence, and frankly it sounds results-oriented (Ollie can chime in if I'm wrong). Playing hands like that in position against passive, predictable players lets you get good value when you're ahead and get away easily when you're behind.

Didn't mean to nitpick - nice post.

[/ QUOTE ]

i'm no authority by any means and you gents may be right that i'm being too results-oriented. my belief was/is that when the pot is small and my equity thin or unknown so it's not a mistake of great magnitude.

i mostly agree with your post; the small edit i'd make is that you can get good value when you're ahead and stay ahead.

a large part of my struggles when i went from .5/1 to 1/2 was that with tighter, more passive opponents, it was harder to get a sense of the likelihood that your equity has changed from street to street. for some LPP's, a call on the flop is enough to warrant a turn-check and river fold UI. for others, a call means nothing and villain is peeling. w/ a LPP you haven't observed closely or have that many hands with; how do you get away from it when there's no pushback?

now some might say, "well, that is true of any pocket pair" however, the higher the pocket pair, the better it fares on more boards vs. an unknown hand.

it may be a mistake to pass up these situations, but given the pot size i think it's a small mistake & i'm more than willing to admit that i just may not be good enough to make those holdings profitable yet.

until i get there, i generally use pot size + my crude but developing sense of what my equity is as my guide.

in the interest of full-disclosure, i will admit that i'm a horrid HU player and only slightly less horrid SH-player. my full-ring game is slightly less terrible than that, but always hopefully getting better. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

edit: fantastic post, btw Wookie! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

I agree with you when you say that in the hand of yours I pointed out, the EV was very slim. However, given your typical fold equity in these situations combined with the fact that your hand may actually be best, this is a great way to play in that situation. People on these forums are willing to cap a 3-way flop on a flush draw holding only slim a 2% equity edge. People here tout a 4 BB/100 win rate as spectacular, but if you compare 0.04 BB per hand to the amount of money you have to put in to win that much, that is a very slim edge indeed. Poker, (limit cash games, at least) is a game of slim edges until you've found a way to get AA every hand. The more slim edges you can exploit, the more successful your poker is going to be. I'm touting six max play here because of how frequently profitable marginal situations like yours come up. If you feel you're missing out, giving up, or misplaying some marginal situations, that's fine. I screw marginal situations up all the time. That's what I'm doing here: reading up and figuring out more of them. Running away from (folding) marginal situations, though, is only going to hold you back as you move up in limits where the big, easy situations don't pay off as well.

Great response, and I hope you don't mind my picking on that hand of yours. Now, to go and actually work on my game. It sure needs it.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Great post, you may have inspired me to sign up for Absolute myself and get into some 6-max bonus clearing there. What limits of shorthanded play do they have?

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Absolute has 6 max all the way down to 0.02/0.04. If you sign up, make sure you get a rakeback deal. Your bonus doesn't count against your MGR. Check out rakerebatereview.com to choose a good one.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Yea I know, that is the reason that I would be signing up for it. I do have a great affiliate already, but thanks.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
Your bonus doesn't count against your MGR

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Can you explain this for a bonus whoring newbie? I was planning on signing up at Absolute in the next couple of days b/c they look like they have an excellent initial bonus.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

In order to increase traffic at their sites, poker sites pay affiliates to recruit people. In exchage, the affiliate gets a cut of the rake you pay. Affiliates, then, in an effort to recruit you, frequently pay you a portion of that rake back. The amount of rake you pay in a month is known as your monthly gross revenue, MGR, and your rakeback is computed against that. At most sites, any deposit bonuses you earn, though, counts against your MGR. For example, you pay $525 in rake one month @ 25% rake back, but you got a $100 reload bonus. Now, instead of getting $131 in rakeback, you only get $31. At Absolute, you get the full $131 in addition to your bonus. I might be off here and there in the details, but this is the gist of it.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Got it, thanks!

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Thanks so much!! I found this when someone else pointed me to it.

Fantastic post, especially:

[ QUOTE ]
People are making adjustments to 6 max play because they are lacking in important concepts from full ring play. That is also why most veterans say playing 1/2 6 max is crucial before moving up to 2/4 and beyond. If you're lacking in one of the "adjustments" you need to make, you are an incomplete poker player, even strictly in terms of full ring play.

[/ QUOTE ]

This observation really put my misunderstanding of 6-max into perspective. I thought I would be working on new and unknown skills in 6-max but it makes more sense (now) that I'm really working on existing weaknesses in my full ring play. I learn much better knowing the "whys" and not just the "hows" so your explanation helps me.

I don't know why a dozen or so posts like this aren't stickied right along with the FAQ. ml would be better for it...

Mike

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Thanks for bumping, I was just looking for this [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Very good post that I missed the first time around. Well struck, sir.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

I didn't read this post the first time around. Perfect timing for me to see this since I am just starting 1/2 6-max.
Thanks for the great post.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
I didn't read this post the first time around. Perfect timing for me to see this since I am just starting 1/2 6-max.
Thanks for the great post.

[/ QUOTE ]

I posted this in another thread (I'm just starting 6-max also):

http://www.flopturnriver.com/6-Max-Limit-Guide.html

Covers all aspects for beginners. Don't know how it stacks up with the '2+2' way of doing things but it's nice having a little booklet for unfamiliar territory...

Mike

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

This post just sent me into an hourlong spiral into the archives, accompanying a mind[censored] regarding my recent 6-max play.

EDIT: So thanks. Really.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Very nice post very informative and already made me itch to play 6 max realizeing some things id been doing wrong

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

limping with pocket pairs no good opening?

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Bump since party added .50/1 6-max...

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Just an FYI for those who don't already know: King Yao's book has a couple of very nice chapters on short-handed play. This is much better and much more practical (especially for us micro guys) than the shorthanded material in HEPAP.

Most of the stuff in Yao is stuff that you guys will already be familiar with (pot odds, free card play, etc.). But the SH stuff may be new. And if you learn only one thing from this book, it will more than justify the price tag.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Hrm, I might have to go and buy that now [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

This one?

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...s&n=507846

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

Yep.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
A similar thesis was also discussed by Ed Miller in his April 2005 article on preflop play in short handed situations.

[/ QUOTE ]

Anybody know how to get ahold of this? They don't keep the back issues longer than 3 months and I'd really like to read it.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
Two Plus Two Internet Magazine licenses its articles from the authors only for a period of three months. All articles older than that are removed from the website, and their rights return to their authors. We want to treat our authors right, and one way we do that is to allow them full use of their quality work in a timely fashion.

If you are looking for a specific article that is older than three months, you should contact the author directly.

Ed Miller
Editor
Two Plus Two Internet Magazine


[/ QUOTE ]
I'd try pm'ing him.

Re: Six Max Baby Steps
 

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Two Plus Two Internet Magazine licenses its articles from the authors only for a period of three months. All articles older than that are removed from the website, and their rights return to their authors. We want to treat our authors right, and one way we do that is to allow them full use of their quality work in a timely fashion.

If you are looking for a specific article that is older than three months, you should contact the author directly.

Ed Miller
Editor
Two Plus Two Internet Magazine


[/ QUOTE ]
I'd try pm'ing him.

[/ QUOTE ]

I really liked Ed's article, and I've asked him if he might put it on his website, but I've not gotten a response from him yet. Maybe he's too busy working on his next book.